dropping valves?

Moderators: Sluggo, Amskeptic

User avatar
ruckman101
Lord God King Bwana
Location: Up next to a volcano.
Contact:
Status: Offline

Re: dropping valves?

Post by ruckman101 » Sat Aug 22, 2015 6:50 pm

I couldn't get the right side in. Both exchangers had to come off. I think I've done the same thing when building up the Ghia engine. I had new exhaust gaskets, but not new clamps. Pesky buggers.


neal
The slipper has no teeth.

User avatar
hambone
Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
Location: Portland, Ore.
Status: Offline

Re: dropping valves?

Post by hambone » Sun Aug 23, 2015 12:58 pm

It's good to follow Tom Wilson, I'm sure he gives you the right order. Stoner.
(I get to give you a hard time on 2 different topics)
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat

User avatar
ruckman101
Lord God King Bwana
Location: Up next to a volcano.
Contact:
Status: Offline

Re: dropping valves?

Post by ruckman101 » Wed Aug 26, 2015 11:37 pm

Engine's pretty much together. Today I drained and pulled the transaxle (rebuilt twice, still pops out of fourth) and swapped bell housings. My original transaxle wasn't popping out of gear in fourth, the only thing wrong with it was the bell housing, a big chunk broke off when I tried to snug the engine that would't quite seat to the transaxle by the one bolt on the connection I managed to get a nut threaded to. DOH!!!

Intact running bell housing onto Bertha's original when I got her transaxle that wasn't popping out of fourth. New frontiers. Bared differentials. Naked they were.

I waded through all that naked trauma only to have the shift rod boot at the nose disintegrate on touch which left me with none. And then there was the shift lever bushing seal bit. There was none on Bertha's original transaxle. Well, there was, sorta, very used, with a bushing like foil where there was still any bushing left between the gaping holes of nothing. Parts run tomorrow.

I even bought a new gasket for under the bell housing, but miscommunication occurred and I ended up with a gasket for a type 1 transaxle? But not mine. So I reused the one from the twice rebuilt not transaxle. Both assemblies had just gaskets under them. I cleaned and hit both surfaces with the same aviation/gasket stuff I use to mate engine case halves. It'll be much messier to pull apart a second time, and a new gasket will be a must.


neal
The slipper has no teeth.

User avatar
ruckman101
Lord God King Bwana
Location: Up next to a volcano.
Contact:
Status: Offline

Re: dropping valves?

Post by ruckman101 » Thu Feb 11, 2016 1:05 am

So I dropped the ball on this thread, too. Sigh.

Anyway. Performance has been abysmal with the spanking new single port head assemblies. The shoddy heads with sloppy guides resurrected from prior cracks with gobs of aluminum welding globs not optimum for cooling air flow rocked in comparison. I literally have an under four mile drive that climbs a thousand feet to get home from the "main" road. It tests the fortitude of any engine that accepts the challenge, and now I have to shift to second to make the drive three times, before, only once.

WTF?

Lower compression? Weak electrics?

Finally addressed the issue. Electrics not weak. Compression 105 105 on one and two, 110 110 on three and four. Burning richer on three four side, not so on one and two. Suggesting a possible leak at manifold to cylinder gasket on the one two side.

I'm still digesting this new information, and would still like to address the issue of having to hit second gear three times rather than once on my drive home.

Would a manifold leak rob an engine of performance? I seem to still be at sea a bit with it.


neal
The slipper has no teeth.

User avatar
Amskeptic
IAC "Help Desk"
IAC "Help Desk"
Status: Offline

Re: dropping valves?

Post by Amskeptic » Thu Feb 11, 2016 7:20 am

ruckman101 wrote:Performance has been abysmal with the spanking new single port head assemblies.
WTF?
Compression 105 / 105 / 110 / 110

neal
I am not able to read through all of this thread at this time, so please indulge me:

new pistons and cylinders?

if so, deck height is now what? What were the combustion chamber volumes of the old heads versus the new heads?

How many miles on the engine at this point?

Intuitively, I sense that the engine has lower designed-in compression now, and it may still be breaking in if the pistons and cylinders have low miles.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

User avatar
ruckman101
Lord God King Bwana
Location: Up next to a volcano.
Contact:
Status: Offline

Re: dropping valves?

Post by ruckman101 » Mon Feb 15, 2016 3:52 pm

About 10 k miles on the bottom end, new pistons and cylinders. New heads, valves, machine shop lapped in. When I replaced the heads I did not remove any spacers under the cylinders, and had to bend the intake manifold out to fit to heads. A thousand or so miles on them. Even during break in with the old heads it had more power than currently. Deck height? I didn't write it down, but figured compression ratio at about 7.1:1.

Combustion chamber volume on the old heads were significantly lower than the new ones. Some of the cooling fin had been fly-cut away to ensure they would mate to the cylinders properly and not on the cooling fins.

Lower compression less power? Some I have talked to say yes. Others say no. Pistons one and two are definitely burning leaner than pistons three and four.

The exhaust/intake pieces have fought me. I have had to put them on loosely and then bring into place with the nuts. And those bitty nuts on the single port intake at the heads are difficult to access under ideal circumstances.

Other than less power, it runs really well.


neal
The slipper has no teeth.

User avatar
Amskeptic
IAC "Help Desk"
IAC "Help Desk"
Status: Offline

Re: dropping valves?

Post by Amskeptic » Fri Feb 19, 2016 6:26 pm

ruckman101 wrote:About 10 k miles on the bottom end, new pistons and cylinders. New heads, valves, machine shop lapped in. When I replaced the heads I did not remove any spacers under the cylinders, and had to bend the intake manifold out to fit to heads. A thousand or so miles on them. Even during break in with the old heads it had more power than currently. Deck height? I didn't write it down, but figured compression ratio at about 7.1:1.

Combustion chamber volume on the old heads were significantly lower than the new ones. Some of the cooling fin had been fly-cut away to ensure they would mate to the cylinders properly and not on the cooling fins.

Lower compression less power? Some I have talked to say yes. Others say no. Pistons one and two are definitely burning leaner than pistons three and four.

The exhaust/intake pieces have fought me. I have had to put them on loosely and then bring into place with the nuts. And those bitty nuts on the single port intake at the heads are difficult to access under ideal circumstances.

Other than less power, it runs really well.


neal
Singleport 1600 flat top pistons were normally 7.7:1 compression ratio. In 1970, the compression ratio was dropped to 7.5:1 with dished pistons?
7.1:1 is pushing the low end, but I like the smoothness and reliability of detuned engines . . .
Colin
(get the crap out of the car, lighten it up!)
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

Post Reply