energyturtle wrote:I am going to launch off an a wild speculation here, something new for me. . . is too.
Technical Bulletin Says: Pistons Seizing.
A) Install pistons with more clearance.
OK, I'm with ya. . .
B) Cut notch in connecting rods (to help cool and shrink pistons).
Fine, makes sense.
C) Delete cylinder head sealing washer (to make cylinders heat up more)
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. They want the heat from the heads to flow into the cylinder barrels as quickly as possible on the big uphill, so the cylinders will expand faster than the pistons, which are also getting heated up on the big hill.
Colin
I have used all the gaskets that came in the kit, as I wanted my engine bone stock. That being said, I am going to order the copper gaskets from aircooled.net. I feel my issue came from a bad torque on the initial install of the heads. I stated I was 1 1/2 turns out on the top left head bolt from achieving proper torque. I feel this was the variable that caused the gasket to fail. Our compression check showed 3/4 were a healthy 138psi compression. I checked #1 myself and it was 137psi. I am confident that with a proper seal on the new copper gaskets i will achieve 130 something. My engine runs fine, no oil leaks, plenty of power, good and cool. All seems well, with the exception of the blown head gasket (I firmly believe it was my fault). Colin.....grade please?
Scottie
You get an "A". I always knew you were a good boy. I wish Bleyseng could be more like you (yes, I had the elementary school teachers from Hades).
Feel free to use a razor blade on that delicate aluminum to scrape down any sharp edges in the combustion chambers that come from nicks or gouges. You may do a little 1/2 mm bevel on the ledge between the bowl and the quench area when you are done. Follow Bleyseng's advice to lap the barrels and cylinders to see if they have a good contact pattern. If you see an area where they are not contacting fully, the sealing surfaces have been damaged and you will need to flycut, which could change sealing ring thickness numbers in a hurry.
Your cylinder contact areas where they meet the head must be smooth. If you see a nick with a raised edge where the cylinder meets the sealing ring, scrape it with a razor blade so that it is smooth. It is made of cast iron, so it will be tougher than the aluminum by far.
Clean all head studs with a die or a wire brush. Oil all threads and run a nut up them until they are friction free, this is important. Your lower studs are inside the valve cover area, do NOT use sealant on them at this time until *next morning final torque*. Do your head torque in five stages. Follow the Bentley diagram, but do both heads simultaneously, mirroring the current nut with the head nut on the other side of the engine. That means you torque #1 in the sequence on the right side, then what they call #3 left side. They are mirror opposites. When you do #3 right side, it will be #1 nut left side according to the Bentley, i tiNK. Do first pass to 10 , second pass to 15, third pass to 23 ft/lbs.
Before you go to bed, go do them all up to 40 ft/lbs. This mimics a heat cycle and helps to bed in the copper sealing rings. This totally improves your long-term clamping.
*Next morning*, or when ever, start with the last nut!! #8! Loosen to below 20 ft/lbs, then bring it up smoothly to 23. Then do the same with 7/6/5/4/3/2 AND ITS MIRROR OPPOSITE simultaneously.
Each lower nut, you will remove completely, only one at a time! remove the washer, apply sealant to washer and stud threads, then torque up to 23. Hold it at 23 for at least fifteen seconds, it will do a ooze migrate. Check everyone again 30 minutes after you are done. This is the most-enhanced procedure I know of.
If you have ANY questions let me know.
Colin
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