1973 Campmobile - Prep work for engine drop-in

BlissfullyCrusin · Post by **BlissfullyCrusin** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 1:52 pm

I've posted here a few times, but I think some background info might be in order.

I purchased my first ever 1973 campmobile a while back. The previous owner had pulled the 1.8 dual carb engine with the intention of rebuilding it. When I got the bus, the engine was already out. After tearing down the engine, I decided to rebuild it with a camper special from Jake Raby. So here comes the question part...

What can I do, so when the rebuilt engine is ready to go, so is the bus? I plan dropping/cleaning the gastank this weekend, but any other things I should check out? I'm sure the electrical could use some straightening up as well but I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with the number of unknowns I have. I thought having the engine pulled would make my life easier..but I think I may have made it harder on myself.
Any advice would be much appreciated.

Westy78 · Post by **Westy78** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:04 pm

When the bus is ready I think is going to be somewhat up to your judgment.
Along with dropping the tank and cleaning, replacing the fuel filler hose and neck would also be a good idea. Also, don't forget the vent hoses on top of the tank. How are your shift rod bushings? Now is the time to drop the tranny and get to those rear ones. While the tranny is out might as well check out the CV joints and boots. Engine bay nice and clean? I am totally with you with your feelings of being overwhelmed. The work just seems to snowball. I'll be there soon but what better time to get those things done?.

BlissfullyCrusin · Post by **BlissfullyCrusin** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:21 pm

Westy78 wrote:How are your shift rod bushings? Now is the time to drop the tranny and get to those rear ones. While the tranny is out might as well check out the CV joints and boots.

Right, thats another area I meant to ask about. How can I "test" the transmission without the engine in? It seems to slide through all the gears without a problem, but I was assuming thats because theres no load on it?

How heavy is the transmission..is it something I'm going to need a dolly for or can it be carried easily enough?

Thanks for dealing with all my newbie questions..gotta start somewhere I guess.

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 3:53 pm

It's hard to anticipate what could go wrong. Taking out the fuel tank and cleaning and checking for rust is good. Then I'd clean, clean, clean. If you see something obviously broken while you're cleaning obviously replace it. A clean engine bay and underside pays off huge down the road.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:54 pm

BlissfullyCrusin wrote:
Westy78 wrote:How are your shift rod bushings? Now is the time to drop the tranny and get to those rear ones. While the tranny is out might as well check out the CV joints and boots.
Right, thats another area I meant to ask about. How can I "test" the transmission without the engine in? It seems to slide through all the gears without a problem,

New shift rod bushings are so cheesy, that I recommend you keep the old ones in. The new ones have such an annoying flash on the lugs that they refuse to insert into the shift rod holes without a hellacious fight.
Your '73 has an adjustable nose cone mount that helps tame any shift rod rattle you might find when all is back together. If you do remove transaxle, lubricate the current plastic bushings with garage door gear grease available at Home Depot under the Chamberlain label, it is guaranteed not to attack the plastic. Really, the original bushings are superior and will last forever with a little cleaning/lubrication.
Colin

PleinAir · Post by **PleinAir** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 9:05 pm

Maybe check your float, too, if your gas gauge has been acting up. Mine had several broken windings and was pretty wasted on top of that.

Also added new filler hose and replaced those hard-to-reach vapor lines, too.

BlissfullyCrusin · Post by **BlissfullyCrusin** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 1:38 pm

Amskeptic wrote:
New shift rod bushings are so cheesy, that I recommend you keep the old ones in. The new ones have such an annoying flash on the lugs that they refuse to insert into the shift rod holes without a hellacious fight.
Your '73 has an adjustable nose cone mount that helps tame any shift rod rattle you might find when all is back together. If you do remove transaxle, lubricate the current plastic bushings with garage door gear grease available at Home Depot under the Chamberlain label, it is guaranteed not to attack the plastic. Really, the original bushings are superior and will last forever with a little cleaning/lubrication.
Colin

So if I'm reading you right here..if I can shift through the gears pretty easily with the engine out..I shouldn't touch the tranny?

Thanks for all the advice guys, I foresee a lot of cleaning in my future.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:33 pm

BlissfullyCrusin wrote: So if I'm reading you right here..if I can shift through the gears pretty easily with the engine out..I shouldn't touch the tranny?

I only said that the original shift bushings are, in the great preponderance of cases, most likely OK. The transaxle is a bit of gamble. Nobody here can tell you what sort of condition the transaxle is in until you drive it. As with any mystery machine, change the transaxle oil before driving.
Colin

(

BlissfullyCrusin wrote: I foresee a lot of cleaning in my future.

Oh yes. . . . . .)

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:37 pm

Amskeptic wrote:...change the transaxle oil before driving.

I second, and take a good look at the fluid that you drain and the magnetic plug for obvious signs of disintegrating innards.

BlissfullyCrusin · Post by **BlissfullyCrusin** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:03 am

I second, and take a good look at the fluid that you drain and the magnetic plug for obvious signs of disintegrating innards.

Other then metal flakes, what should I be looking for?

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:08 am

I had chunks of metal.

BlissfullyCrusin · Post by **BlissfullyCrusin** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:14 am

chitwnvw wrote:I had chunks of metal.

Oy. That strikes fear into my heart.

Is there anything other then metal (flakes, chunks, pieces, chips, etc) that I should be looking for?

Post by **Amskeptic** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:23 am

BlissfullyCrusin wrote:
chitwnvw wrote:I had chunks of metal.
Oy. That strikes fear into my heart.

Is there anything other then metal (flakes, chunks, pieces, chips, etc) that I should be looking for?

Usually, you will just find a porcupine of tiny slivers on the drain plug magnet and some non-ferrous swirls of brass in the oil itself. Water is extremely bad, as is white goop, as are large pieces of transmission gear fragments or bearing rollers.
Colin

BlissfullyCrusin · Post by **BlissfullyCrusin** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:39 am

Usually, you will just find a porcupine of tiny slivers on the drain plug magnet and some non-ferrous swirls of brass in the oil itself.

Is that a bad thing or a "this is normal, nothing to worry about" thing?

Post by **Amskeptic** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 12:23 pm

BlissfullyCrusin wrote:
Usually, you will just find a porcupine of tiny slivers on the drain plug magnet and some non-ferrous swirls of brass in the oil itself.
Is that a bad thing or a "this is normal, nothing to worry about" thing?

Normal. Just do the fresh oil change 75-90wt GL4 (5 is OK as long as 4 is also listed), and drive it with some semblance of care and coordination.
Colin

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

1973 Campmobile - Prep work for engine drop-in

1973 Campmobile - Prep work for engine drop-in