Can't get oil temp down

[72Kombi]

If there's only one port it's an advance port, if you had two then you'd have an advance and a retard port.

I only recall one port on my distributor though. Shouldn't there be two then? Ill have to go out and check.

[vdubyah73]

If there's only one port it's an advance port, if you had two then you'd have an advance and a retard port.

Exactly, if your vacuum lines are hooked up wrong you could be retarded ( di da deee ) or advanced at the wrong time. That would give you high head temps despite your false readings on the CHT gauge. Some will say head temps and oil temps are not really related, but they are if the whole engine is out of tune and running hot.

Bill

[72Kombi]

Ok, I got all my parts and Im going to adjust the timing in the morning.

I think I found part of the problem. When I compare this new timing bar with the notch cut into the old one, the old one has the notch at 5 degrees BTDC, and my Muir book says it should be at 5 degrees ATDC. So its been running too fast, right? I would assume that turning the timing down that much I will have to adjust my idle up as well?

[dtrumbo]

You should adjust your timing by what distributor you have. Look on the distributor and find the number(s). Then go here, http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ovhignbo.htm Click on the distributor you have and figure out what your timing should be set to.

There is no way to know for sure that the distributor that is in your bus today is the one it came with from the factory. Therefore, you cannot use the timing info printed in the Bentley/Muir/etc. as they are quoting the factory specs.

[Amskeptic]

Ok, I got all my parts and Im going to adjust the timing in the morning.

I think I found part of the problem. When I compare this new timing bar with the notch cut into the old one, the old one has the notch at 5 degrees BTDC, and my Muir book says it should be at 5 degrees ATDC. So its been running too fast, right? I would assume that turning the timing down that much I will have to adjust my idle up as well?

OK, with a weber (coughcoughcrapcoughcough), you DO NOT WANT vacuum retard. The vacuum retard works in concert with the air bypass idle circuits on the Solex carbs (that would be the entire central idling circuit for the factory dual carb buses.

You want the 5-7.5 BTDC timing at idle, whatever best gives you 28-30* at 3,000 rpm. Do not be confused. The default timing for all VWs is the centrifugal advance figure at 3,000 rpm. Depending on the distributor you have, the idle timing WILL be 5-7.5* BTDC. If you have a functional vacuum retard distributor to go along with those handsome factory dual carbs, then 5* ATDC is your number. This is fun.
Colin

[72Kombi]

OK, with a weber (coughcoughcrapcoughcough), you DO NOT WANT vacuum retard.

So the vacuum line on the Weber is just advance?

[chitwnvw]

OK, with a weber (coughcoughcrapcoughcough), you DO NOT WANT vacuum retard.

So the vacuum line on the Weber is just advance?

Correct.

[karl]

OK, with a weber (coughcoughcrapcoughcough), you DO NOT WANT vacuum retard.

So the vacuum line on the Weber is just advance?

MAYBE!

You need to get a vacuum gauge and connect it that port and see EXACTLY what it does.

Vacuum at idle and it drops when you open the throttle means it is manifold vacuum. NOT good for vacuum advance!

No vacuum at idle and it appears when you open the throttle and disappears when you close the throttle means it is ported vacuum. This is what you need for vacuum advance.

Test, test, test..... do NOT guess!

[Amskeptic]

OK, with a weber (coughcoughcrapcoughcough), you DO NOT WANT vacuum retard.

So the vacuum line on the Weber is just advance?

MAYBE!

You need to get a vacuum gauge and connect it that port and see EXACTLY what it does.

Vacuum at idle and it drops when you open the throttle means it is manifold vacuum. NOT good for vacuum advance!

No vacuum at idle and it appears when you open the throttle and disappears when you close the throttle means it is ported vacuum. This is what you need for vacuum advance.

Test, test, test..... do NOT guess!

Yeah, what he said.
Colin

[72Kombi]

Test, test, test..... do NOT guess!

Who's guessing? That's why I asked.

I'll test the vacuum as you described. I have not had a chance to work on it yet but plan to in the AM.

[chitwnvw]

Yes, yes, never assume. I know that. Probably advance, but anything is possible. I shouldn't be forwarding probables as facts.

[Amskeptic]

Test, test, test..... do NOT guess!

Who's guessing? That's why I asked.

Hey, chill. . . Karl was enjoying the phonetics. Remember that the reading audience is vast, and many of our replies are formulated for posterity, not just the hapless present victim.
Colin

[72Kombi]

OK need help ASAP.

Im out working now. The carb pulls vacuum when the throttle is pressed so it is a vacuum advance.

When the timing is set to 5 degrees btdc, it almost goes off the scale (40) at 3000 rpm. If I turn the distributor down to zero degrees (as far as it will go) it tops at 33 degrees at 3000 rpm.

What now?

[72Kombi]

Hey, chill. . . Karl was enjoying the phonetics.

lol, Im not exited. The written word can get lost in translation. I just meant to convey that im not one of the "guessers"

[Amskeptic]

OK need help ASAP.

Im out working now. The carb pulls vacuum when the throttle is pressed so it is a vacuum advance.

When the timing is set to 5 degrees btdc, it almost goes off the scale (40) at 3000 rpm. If I turn the distributor down to zero degrees (as far as it will go) it tops at 33 degrees at 3000 rpm.

What now?

That is correct behavior. Chill again

Colin

(see, when you check centrifugal advance, you must take the advance hose off. With the hose on, the vacuum advance is allowed to bring it up to 40+ because it drops back under load.
Colin