Type1 Case Options

jeb1978 · Post by **jeb1978** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:46 pm

I bought a new one (magnesium case, don't recall if it's Brazilian or Mexican offhand) for my '69 Westy earlier this year since the one that was in the Bus was on it's 2nd or 4th life (thrust was machined to the max already).

Bought it through a local VW shop. Looks like it's the same one aircooled.net sells. Cost about the same, too ($500 or $520, don't recall exactly). Seemed like a nice part, I didn't notice anything odd on it, other than it didn't have the Type 3 oil fill port on it (maybe it's not so universal after all?), but that just saved me some extra parts.

I had it full flowed and had the mounting stud for the thermostat installed (boss was there, but wasn't drilled or tapped).

Engine has about 1,200 miles on it now and seems to be happy. If I hadn't bought a new case, I would have likely went with a rebuilt (ie, align bored) case from a reputable supplier.

Elwood · Post by **Elwood** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:16 pm

Hi Bob, I went looking around on the int. and I think getting a case from those that offer the best "back-up" sitch is best. But how do you know???
The air-cooled guy has a spiffie site, but tried to find his background, and believe you me I don,t like anyone that does not say ,"From where I came" been there-done that is way important to me. I too will be doing a rebuild for Elwood in the future and I hope you find the right sitch. Are you sure your case is not good in your '69? I know when El broke his crank, ( fun to say in mixed company) it was obvious.

Wish you well and get the back up help. Barb

karl · Post by **karl** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:52 pm

That $399 case looks like a great deal..... I would go for it if I needed one.

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:34 am

In Ohio though...what to do if something goes wrong?
Isn't the Aircooled.net guy pretty active on S*mba? Nut swinging squirrel? Or is that someone else?
He did answer my email in 5 minutes, on a Sunday no less! That's worth something in this day and age.
Well once I get the case I can start collecting parts. Thanks.

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:02 am

OOOh! This is exciting. Gonna be participating in a full on bottom up rebuild. Can't wait!

Gonna have to get that construction heater working to keep the garage warm. I have the fuel just have to fix the leaky tank.

When is this taking place?

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:42 am

Probably December. I won't have the cabbage until then. Not much camping goin on that time of year anyway.
Man I can't wait to get this damn thing fixed. And I sure could use your help!

Oregon72 · Post by **Oregon72** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:40 pm

Gypsie and Hambone, I'll help you out if you need me. I probably won't be much help in a technical sense, but more like a hand me that damn wrench or crack me open another beer type-a-way.

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:43 pm

hambone wrote:Probably December. I won't have the cabbage until then. Not much camping goin on that time of year anyway.
Man I can't wait to get this damn thing fixed. And I sure could use your help!

How you rustlin' up the dough, Hammie? I thought you was living on fumes by the time the next paycheck came. Just askin' as a fellow fume liver.

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 3:23 pm

Still fumes...it sux but I'm really not missing out on much. Well, gas money for camping.
I've got some xtra cash comin my way from my job in Dec. Otherwise I wouldn't be able to afford it.

fancy pants · Post by **fancy pants** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:52 pm

Count me in for extra muscle as well Hambone.

John

Sylvester · Post by **Sylvester** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:32 am

hambone wrote:Here's one for $400, but I've never heard of the company:
http://www.larrysoffroad.com/item106109.ctlg
Is the gamble worth $100? Who knows.

Someone way back recommended them to me when I was looking up engine parts. The neat thing was they are located in my old hometown, so I could swing by and get stuff if needed. I did talk to them years ago, but I never ordered anything from them.

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:20 pm

Got a new Brazil case locally, they gave me a hell of a deal at $400.
The machined surfaces are kind of rough tho I'm not surprised. Is there a preferred way of cleaning up the various mating surfaces? Emery cloth and/or lapping compound? I don't want to take too much material off.

Is it worth it to clean up the exterior casting rough spots, or should I just leave it the hell alone?

ruckman101 · Post by **ruckman101** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:17 pm

How exciting!

I'm in the market for a new case myself. Discount has them on the shelf, machined for big bore or not, but I don't remember what kind they are. I think they might have been the aluminum ones. Prices were reasonable two years ago.

neal

Post by **Amskeptic** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:21 pm

hambone wrote:Got a new Brazil case locally, they gave me a hell of a deal at $400.
The machined surfaces are kind of rough tho I'm not surprised. Is there a preferred way of cleaning up the various mating surfaces? Emery cloth and/or lapping compound? I don't want to take too much material off.

Is it worth it to clean up the exterior casting rough spots, or should I just leave it the hell alone?

Believe it or not, a box of fresh quality razor blades is the way to go. Always touch the case surface only with the blade moving, and release from case still moving. You will see that you have maybe a 30% contact, that is all you care for. Sweep the parting line with the blade at a slight trailing angle. When you hit edges, do a more serious trailing angle and take down the edge just a tad. This is true for each bearing saddle edge, oil pump hole, and cylinder spigot, as well. Wash the hell out of it with GumOut spray and even get a coldtank rinse to make extra sure. Be an artist about it, and you will quickly sense what it is that we are trying to do with this metal. Never scrape deeply and never go deeper than the machining marks on the case parting surface. Do not drag the blade directly from inside to outside of any flange. Make it at least 45* and if the other case half goes in the opposite direction, you will have a light XXXX mating, which helps sealing. Be smart and intuitive. Understand that VW wanted a rough machine score surface for sealing, mirror smooth is asking for a leak.
Colin

chitwnvw · Post by **chitwnvw** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:31 pm

LOL. I might be good at the razor blade thang. It sounds a lot like sanding hardwood floors.

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Type1 Case Options