Engine oil

rastafoo · Post by **rastafoo** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:48 pm

what advantage does 20/50 have over 10/30 (which is what I've been running)? It's pretty much warm enough all year here in tallahassee to use one type of oil all year 'round.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:13 pm

rastafoo wrote:what advantage does 20/50 have over 10/30 (which is what I've been running)? It's pretty much warm enough all year here in tallahassee to use one type of oil all year 'round.

The viscosity of the oil is very important in our air-cooled engines.

A) Flow versus pressure (thinner oil has lower pressure)

B) Pressure relief valve (thinner oil opens oil cooler sooner)

C) These engines have dramatic expansion and contraction between cold and hot operation, the oil viscosity has to bridge the change in clearances.

D) Thinner oil has greater flow volume across bearing surfaces, not necessarily a good thing.

Viscosity should not be confused with film strength. Some people will picture in their minds that thinner oil would have less lubricity, this is not the case.

I use 10-40 in winter, 20-50 in summer. Switch point is the first and last frost.
Colin

static · Post by **static** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:23 am

I've been using SAE30 in my buses for over 30 years.

My VWs have "issues", but oil is not one of them.

skin daddio · Post by **skin daddio** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 9:04 am

hambone wrote:Castrol SAE30 year round.

x2.. except when i know i'm sailing toward mexico at 70mph, the its castrol straight 40

TrollFromDownBelow · Post by **TrollFromDownBelow** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:14 pm

interesting oil tale and filter tale... not in a vddub, but, my air cooled, low revving harley....

Had always used HD20w50 in it, decided to try synth. Bought Castrol 20w50 (car formula) and the crome fram filter from the FLAPs. After I got it home, noticed the filter was made in taiwan...and it was a bit too long (had to remove engine temp sensor to R and R) and the threads were not cut well..kept hanging up in one position, had to use a filter wrench to get it on. 2nd or 3rd time I had the bike out, noticed a lot of tappet noise, that was never there before.

Decided to change the oil again, went to the local FLAPs got Amzoil synth formulated for motorcyles (friggin expensive! $10 per quart), and thought wasn't gonna pay extra for the cheaply made chrome filter, got the regular fram filter (no chrome) for half the price. Got home, and noticed the regular filter was made in the USA, and it was the right length, and the threads were cut correctly (put it on by hand) and looked to be better made ... bet it cost more to make the 'cheap' filter rather than the chrome one. Took her out for a 200 mi ride sat, no more tappet noise!

Moral of the story ... some time's cheap is cheap (oil) and sometimes cheap is better (filter).

BTW - to keep it vw related, use castrol 20w50 in the warmer months...dramatic improvement in oil consumption compared to Kendall 10w40.

Hippie · Post by **Hippie** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 4:54 am

I've heard a lot of stories about lifter noise with some Frams filters.
I think they are overpriced, myself. Can get a far better WIX or Purolator for the same or less money.
Also, if you are running synthetic and want to save a buck, might try Mobil 1 15W-50.
Just my opinions.

Manfred · Post by **Manfred** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:34 am

I was wondering does a multi-weight oil such as 20w-50 increase in viscosity as the oil temp increases? Meaning, will it act like a 20-30-40-50 weight as the temp increases. Or does it just go from being a 20 weight to a 50 weight.

Or am I just completely misunderstanding how oil works?

TrollFromDownBelow · Post by **TrollFromDownBelow** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:52 am

Hippie wrote:I've heard a lot of stories about lifter noise with some Frams filters.
I think they are overpriced, myself. Can get a far better WIX or Purolator for the same or less money.
Also, if you are running synthetic and want to save a buck, might try Mobil 1 15W-50.
Just my opinions.

Don't use synth on my Vdub because of economics (freq oil changes, and oil usage). Use Rotella T 15w 40 synth in my Saab (cheaper than mobile 1). Agree abt Fram... typically avoid, however, that was all that was available for my bike @ that time.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:25 am

Manfred wrote:I was wondering does a multi-weight oil such as 20w-50 increase in viscosity as the oil temp increases?

Polymer chains link up under heat. Multi-viscosity oil keeps the pour characteristics (the thickness) stable over a broader range. Recommended.
Colin

dingo · Post by **dingo** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:39 am

My friend's dad patented a pre-oiling device several years ago. he then decided it was overly complex...and now, each time before starting up his 1990 Vangon Weekender, he pushes a button on the dash for several seconds: an electric pump takes oil from the sump and squirts at pressure thru the oil-pressure-sensor orifice.... what doest thou think of this ?

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:13 am

I'd be interested in seeing said device or at least more details. Soiunds good but a static engine will not allow oil into the at rest contact points until things start moving.

The benefits of oil ready to be spun into place are likely worth some expense, though I would be concerned about how the device may interfere with stock design.

Hmmmmmm?.....

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:16 am

We're getting 100k + miles from our engines without the oiler, doesn't really seem necessary.

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 4:17 pm

If you want to pre oil before start up You can either put in a push button starter only switch, or a switch to interrupt power to the coil. Spin the engine over for several seconds before powering up the coil, by either turning on the key or releasing the power interrupt switch. Just like the olden days. My old Ford would fire right off, on the first revolution. Didn't matter how cold it was. I used a push button starter switch just to spin it a bit before it would fire up.

Hippie · Post by **Hippie** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:04 pm

Manfred wrote:Or does it just go from being a 20 weight to a 50 weight.

It's gradual. The rating just means it acts like a 20W would at 0 deg C and at 100 deg C it is acting as a 50W would. With a nice smooth curve between them.

vdubyah73 wrote:...I used a push button starter switch just to spin it a bit before it would fire up.

I like that.
With some fuel inj moderns I've hear you can just put in clear flood mode by going WOT while cranking. But most folks say you never get oil to wher it needs to be as fast as if you just fire it up.

Hippie · Post by **Hippie** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:09 pm

TrollFromDownBelow wrote:Don't use synth on my Vdub because of economics (freq oil changes, and oil usage).

I liked it but it leaked pretty hard. Switched back to Castrol conventional on Colin's advice.

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Engine oil

ummmmm

Re: ummmmm