Type1 Case Options

[Amskeptic]

LOL. I might be good at the razor blade thang. It sounds a lot like sanding hardwood floors.

With a rasp, on your hands and knees, sure. . .

[VWBusrepairman]

It sounds a lot like sanding hardwood floors.

It actually has a little sharper pitch than the sound of sanding wood floors.

My vote is for original German case, properly machined by a qualified shop, and has been my only experience. The Al cases are probably OK once the tolerances are met and it sounds like they may be getting there.

Good luck.

[hambone]

New is new. No heat stress cycles, no line bores. It's cool getting a genuine VW part, logos all over the place, even on the blue packing bag. Even cast into the case. Wonder how long they'll be makin em'. Probably a while.

Colin I think I understand your scraping analogy. I used to make plastic plane kits as a kid, and you had to scrape the surfaces smooth with an xacto knife. Takes a steady light scrape or you gouge it.

Should the oil pump bore be shiny? What about the cylinder head gasket mounting surface? I got rebuild heads but they were sand or bead blasted and they left that suface kind of rough. Sort of bugs me.

[chitwnvw]

I got rebuild heads but they were sand or bead blasted and they left that suface kind of rough. Sort of bugs me.

Wouldn't the pits give you more surface area to shed heat?

[hambone]

Colin, with your razorblade method, what is the finished result one is expecting? You say to not go below the machining marks, so I'd imagine it's just to clean up any drill/tap overflow and built up magnesium oxidation.
Will it resemble freshly machined metal when all is said and done? If one were to use emery cloth, it would result in a shiner surface than milling, but I'd betcha you lose the close tolerances by taking off too much material. If one were careful the results might be similar.
Just trying to picture what it would look like. I've never considered a razorblade for this type of work.