Compression Test Results (not good)
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Compression Test Results (not good)
Finally found Bottomends Compression Tester. The results aren't good. The wierd thing is, I have pretty decent power. And these results are almost identical to my tests before the rebuild. I used new/rebuilt heads & rings but the same pistons & cylinders.
Here are the results:
#1 - 100
#2 - 110
#3 - Just over 80 (same weak cylinder as before the rebuild)
#4 - 105 (a little oily)
What do you think? New P&Cs?
Here are the results:
#1 - 100
#2 - 110
#3 - Just over 80 (same weak cylinder as before the rebuild)
#4 - 105 (a little oily)
What do you think? New P&Cs?
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: Compression Test Results (not good)
Give the engine a chance to break-in, like 1,000 miles. Aftermarket rings take longer to break-in.Sluggo wrote: I have pretty decent power.
#1 - 100
#2 - 110
#3 - Just over 80 (same weak cylinder as before the rebuild)
#4 - 105 (a little oily)
What do you think?
Monitor the low cylinder. Your readings are as indicative of basic engine assembly architecture as anything else.
Deck height, combustion chamber cc's, even variations in valve grinding can send your numbers on a romp through your anxiety centers.
You will establish a baseline shortly, and that is what you will compare to future readings.
Type 4 engines with the factory 7.3:1 are not compression reading champs on a good day. That is why the factory gives you from 85 to 135 psi.
Power, smoothness, cool running, if these criteria are met, get out and enjoy the drive.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
I was just looking up info on compression testing and discovered that I should have taken all the plugs out instead of just the one I was testing.
Decent Power, pretty smooth (except sometimes accelerating in 2nd), Head temps rarely go over 320 never over 350. Oil temp usually around 150-175.
Decent Power, pretty smooth (except sometimes accelerating in 2nd), Head temps rarely go over 320 never over 350. Oil temp usually around 150-175.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
- Status: Offline
-
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
I would drive it and see if things improve. Make sure that your valves are all dead on before you check compression. I only have just under 80 miles on my new raby build and I am seeing 125 on every cylinder. Did you use dino or synthetic oil for break in?? If synthetic was used the rings will have a tough time setting up, may never get full compression with synthetic.
79 Westfalia "Mantis"
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
I'll do it again after I drive a little more. Castrol GTX 20/50 dino all the way. Checked my valves just a few minutes ago and a couple were just slightly off. Took her for a little drive and felt a little more power. I've been driving just to put miles on her. I live where I work and just about everything I would want is within a few miles. Except a VW store of course. Gotta drive to Eagle Rock for that. My poor Corolla hasn't been started since I got the Bus running.CASEY79WESTFALIA wrote:I would drive it and see if things improve. Make sure that your valves are all dead on before you check compression. I only have just under 80 miles on my new raby build and I am seeing 125 on every cylinder. Did you use dino or synthetic oil for break in?? If synthetic was used the rings will have a tough time setting up, may never get full compression with synthetic.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------
- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
- Status: Offline
Jealous, Beeatch! I have noticed that the Japanese cars are great but emotionally temperamental. Got a 91 Camry out back that will testify.Sluggo wrote: Except a VW store of course. Gotta drive to Eagle Rock for that. My poor Corolla hasn't been started since I got the Bus running.
I would think on the west coast that you'd have stores all over the place. It frustrates me, I live in a metro area of 7million+ and no stores, a guy in Minneapolis, he's got a store around the corner! WTF!
Using the same 20/50.
I'd say be happy. You're driving around, it handles well, responds well, temps are good, there's not oodles of oil pouring out. The milage will come...
- hambone
- Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
- Location: Portland, Ore.
- Status: Offline
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Just Bob Costa. He can be a bit pricey sometimes. But sometimes he just goes out back and yanks the part off another bus and gives it to ya. There's a place out in Hawthorne that good for cams & carbs & stuff. But the performance places here in L.A. that sell VW stuff are just selling overpriced crap (mostly EMPI) and the employees might as well be working at Autobone.chitwnvw wrote:I would think on the west coast that you'd have stores all over the place. It frustrates me, I live in a metro area of 7million+ and no stores, a guy in Minneapolis, he's got a store around the corner! WTF!Sluggo wrote: Except a VW store of course. Gotta drive to Eagle Rock for that. My poor Corolla hasn't been started since I got the Bus running.
I'd say be happy. You're driving around, it handles well, responds well, temps are good, there's not oodles of oil pouring out. The milage will come...
It handles okay right now. I have to replace the Ball Joints, Tie Rods & Assemblies, Center Pin Bushings, Steering Damper, front Shocks, adjust the Steering Box and possibly have to adjust the Toe & Camber after the Tie Rods are installed. Bottomend & I will have a full weekend. The back end is nice & tight though. New Spring Plate Bushings & Old School Konis thanks to Colin.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------
- hambone
- Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
- Location: Portland, Ore.
- Status: Offline
- DurocShark
- IAC Addict!
- Location: A Mickey Mouse Town
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Take a drive down to HB one day. I like the guys at VeeDub. http://www.vwparts.net/Sluggo wrote: Just Bob Costa. He can be a bit pricey sometimes. But sometimes he just goes out back and yanks the part off another bus and gives it to ya. There's a place out in Hawthorne that good for cams & carbs & stuff. But the performance places here in L.A. that sell VW stuff are just selling overpriced crap (mostly EMPI) and the employees might as well be working at Autobone.