Source for 72-74 exhaust refresh parts

[hercdriver]

The studs and nuts on my exhaust are shot. I've search online and found the nuts at www.Busdepot.com and the HE to muffler gaskets at www2.CIP1.com. I also need the studs that connect the HE and muffler. Has anyone found somewhere that carries all three?

[Amskeptic]

The studs and nuts on my exhaust are shot. I've search online and found the nuts at http://www.Busdepot.com and the HE to muffler gaskets at www2.CIP1.com. I also need the studs that connect the HE and muffler. Has anyone found somewhere that carries all three?

You can get studs elsewhere. The sizes are listed in the Bentley . . . I believe. You can also cut to length . . . If you replace any exchanger-to-exhaust port nuts, do NOT use self-locking nuts that eat your cylinder head studs. Use regular nuts and anti-seize and promise to recheck their tightness after several heating cycles .
Colin

[hercdriver]

Normal nuts with anti-seize? That makes sense.

As far as the studs go, I have local hardware store that maybe able to match the ones I removed. I do think I'll get shorter studs than I have now. The current ones are so long, that it's hard to get a box end wrench between the end of the stud and the heat exchanger.

I annealed the copper sealing rings that go between the heat exchanger and cylinder head. Is it recommended to add a little high temp RTV to aid in sealing? Or just let the copper rings seal the mating surface. (I did file the end of the HE tubes with a bastard file.)

[Amskeptic]

Normal nuts with anti-seize? That makes sense.

As far as the studs go, I have local hardware store that maybe able to match the ones I removed. I do think I'll get shorter studs than I have now. The current ones are so long, that it's hard to get a box end wrench between the end of the stud and the heat exchanger.

I annealed the copper sealing rings that go between the heat exchanger and cylinder head. Is it recommended to add a little high temp RTV to aid in sealing? Or just let the copper rings seal the mating surface. (I did file the end of the HE tubes with a bastard file.)

Only use orange RTV if head surfaces are marred. It will make the removal of the copper rings a real pia next time, so only use it if someone has botched the actual aluminum on the exhaust port.
Colin

[72Hardtop]

Permatex offers an equivalant to Loctite 518. Use it on the copper rings and avoid RTV use.

The Loctite 518 or Permatex equivalant will carbonize when heat hits it and greatly aid in sealing everything up.

[Amskeptic]

Permatex offers an equivalant to Loctite 518. Use it on the copper rings and avoid RTV use.

The Loctite 518 or Permatex equivalant will carbonize when heat hits it and greatly aid in sealing everything up.

Loctite 518 is good to 300*, suitable enough I guess, for water cooled engines, but it is woefully out of its league for air-cooled exhaust ports.

The Permatex Ultra-Copper RTV I recommend is good for 700* which is barely enough.
It is safely nowhere near lubrication system, so I do recommend this specific RTV in this application.
Colin