Change Fan Belt

[westy78socal]

78 2.0 FI

Just to double check before I do this. There's nothing special to do to change the fan belt. I loosen the socket head screw enough to get the belt off that side and then the fan screen on the other. After I get the new belt on make sure there's about 9/16 deflection. Anything else? Thanks.

[chitwnvw]

That sounds about right.

[Amskeptic]

Anything else? Thanks.

Lots. Of course.

Before you try to loosen the alternator, ensure that the 13mm nut underneath is slightly loose. This nut clamps the lower part of the alternator to its bracket. By having it slightly loose, you will find that things pivot more easily. You can check the alternator cooling boot and clamp at this time as well for no cracks and secure clamping. . . might check that the dipstick boot is healthy too.

The sockethead screw is often mangled past functional use by people who think it needs to be tightened to death. It does not. The 13mm nut underneath can take the brunt of the belt tension allowing you to just snug the sockethead screw.

Pushing the alternator with your hand as you snug the sockethead screw should give you the correct tension with that lower nut loose. The looser the better, say the alternator bearings. A mild flap at idle with your 9/16" deflection is OK. Tighten the lower nut when you are done and . . . put the plastic cap back in the adjustment hole.
Colin
(I like the "serrated" inner teeth type belts)

[satchmo]

Anything else? Thanks.

Colin
(I like the "serrated" inner teeth type belts)

Why?

[Amskeptic]

There is less cord flexing when the inner radius is allowed to more easily describe the tight small pulley/then go straight/then describe large pulley radius without the fight of a full thickness. It is sort of like the little cuts a seamster/ress makes in fabric when you have to make a bend.
I got 26 years out of a toothy belt and less than two out of the piece of crap Goodyear belt I got in Texas two years ago (it threw a chunk from the inside). I put Ol' Toothy back on and all is well.
Colin

[westy78socal]

Anything else? Thanks.

Lots. Of course.

Before you try to loosen the alternator, ensure that the 13mm nut underneath is slightly loose. This nut clamps the lower part of the alternator to its bracket. By having it slightly loose, you will find that things pivot more easily. You can check the alternator cooling boot and clamp at this time as well for no cracks and secure clamping. . . might check that the dipstick boot is healthy too.

The sockethead screw is often mangled past functional use by people who think it needs to be tightened to death. It does not. The 13mm nut underneath can take the brunt of the belt tension allowing you to just snug the sockethead screw.

Pushing the alternator with your hand as you snug the sockethead screw should give you the correct tension with that lower nut loose. The looser the better, say the alternator bearings. A mild flap at idle with your 9/16" deflection is OK. Tighten the lower nut when you are done and . . . put the plastic cap back in the adjustment hole.
Colin
(I like the "serrated" inner teeth type belts)

Let me make sure I got this in my novice understanding of things...I should loosen the 13mm bolt, which is the on the right as you're looking at the engine from the back, and this is the bolt that the belt actually turns on. Then loosen the sockethead screw, the one under the cap and above to the right from the 13mm screw. Switch belts, then tighten up the 13mm before the sockethead? To check the 9/16, just eyeball it or use a ruler?

[Amskeptic]

Let me make sure I got this in my novice understanding of things...I should loosen the 13mm bolt, which is the on the right as you're looking at the engine from the back, and this is the bolt that the belt actually turns on.
To check the 9/16, just eyeball it or use a ruler?

Now I am confused. The belt does not turn on any bolt.

There is a 13mm NUT screwed onto the alternator pivot bolt, accessible under the car near the dipstick boot. Loosen it, then the 6mm allen, snug up the belt, "tack" the position of the alternator with the 6mm allen, and hold the alternator securely with the 13mm nut. The bolt that the alternator pivots on is a carriage head bolt, visible just under the belt's path as you look at the plate that surrounds the alternator. The carriage head bolt has a square shape that is supposed to engage the sheetmetal plate and it is supposed to also engage the alternator pivot bracket so you don't have to backwrench as you secure the 13mm nut at the end of your adjustment. Tension should be an easy 9/16" push with a finger.
Colin

[Amskeptic]

Let me make sure I got this in my novice understanding of things...I should loosen the 13mm bolt, which is the on the right as you're looking at the engine from the back, and this is the bolt that the belt actually turns on.
To check the 9/16, just eyeball it or use a ruler?

Now I am confused. The belt does not turn on any bolt.

There is a 13mm NUT screwed onto the alternator pivot bolt, accessible under the car near the dipstick boot. Loosen it, then the 6mm allen, snug up the belt, "tack" the position of the alternator with the 6mm allen, and hold the alternator securely with the 13mm nut. The bolt that the alternator pivots on is a carriage head bolt, visible just under the belt's path as you look at the plate that surrounds the alternator. The carriage head bolt has a square shape that is supposed to engage the sheetmetal plate and it is supposed to also engage the alternator pivot bracket so you don't have to backwrench as you secure the 13mm nut at the end of your adjustment. Tension should be an easy 9/16" push with a finger.
Colin