front wheel shimmy

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ruckman101
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front wheel shimmy

Post by ruckman101 » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:44 pm

Ok, so it feels like the passenger side front wheel shimmy/shakes at about 40 mph on the Ghia. Otherwise I don't notice anything slower or faster. What should I look for?


neal
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Randy in Maine
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Post by Randy in Maine » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:53 pm

What happens if you put the front tires on the rear?

If it goes away I would be looking for a tie out of round, a bent rim or an out of balance tire.
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chitwnvw
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Post by chitwnvw » Fri Jun 05, 2009 5:08 pm

Wheel balanced?

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Hippie
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Post by Hippie » Fri Jun 05, 2009 6:52 pm

If it just started, look for fresh marks on the rim where a wheel weight might have been. Sometimes they just take a breeze.

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ruckman101
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Post by ruckman101 » Fri Jun 05, 2009 8:56 pm

Balanced with the mounting of the new tires a year ago. Maybe I have lost a weight.

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Post by chitwnvw » Sat Jun 06, 2009 12:56 am

ruckman101 wrote:Balanced with the mounting of the new tires a year ago. Maybe I have lost a weight.

neal
Mud ( or whatever ) on the inside of the rim? I would try rotating. I seem to recall someone having this issue and it was a sign of failure for that tire. The tread coming loose or some sort. At any rate, it would be good to isolate if it is the tire/rim or something else.

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Hippie
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Post by Hippie » Sat Jun 06, 2009 4:38 am

chitwnvw wrote:Mud ( or whatever ) on the inside of the rim?
Good point there Todd. Often overlooked. And you're right tires with belt separation can shimmy too.

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Post by hambone » Sun Jun 07, 2009 8:09 am

What about wheel bearing adjustment? Too loose can cause wobblies.
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ruckman101
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Post by ruckman101 » Thu Jul 16, 2009 2:01 pm

Well, had the balance checked today, and wheels are balanced just fine. Worn tie-rod ends are causing the shimmy. The worst is on the driver's side, even though the shimmy feels like it's the passenger side wheel.

The guy at the tire shop explained how to measure my toe-in after I get them replaced. They look easy enough to replace.


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ruckman101
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Post by ruckman101 » Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:37 am

Wait a minute, do I need a "pickle fork"? That sounds nasty.



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Post by RussellK » Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:54 am

ruckman101 wrote:Wait a minute, do I need a "pickle fork"? That sounds nasty.



neal
They aren't terribly expensive. If I weren't 1900 miles away I'd loan one to you. There is also a tie rod end & ball joint tool. German Supply has them. You might be able to borrow one from a flaps.

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Post by RSorak 71Westy » Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:15 am

A pickle fork is not required to get the tie rod end outta the steering knuckle, just a nice hammer. Hit the steering knuckle where the tapered shaft from tie rod goes through it. The force should distort the hole for a milisec and allow the tie rod to pop free. This trick DOES work I've used it many times.....It has the advantage of never tearing up the rubber boots too.
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ruckman101
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Post by ruckman101 » Fri Jul 17, 2009 4:15 pm

Yah, New territory for me again. Ya mean I don't just undo that bottom nut and pop it off of there, then thread it out of the tie rod? I better take a look at my Bentley.

So picked up the new ones this morning, was encouraged to see the box, Meyle Products, Germany. Then I noticed a small sticker on the side, "Made in Turkey".

Thanks Gypsy, the plan is to tackle on my approaching weekend. Ya gonna be at the homefront Sunday morning? Maybe I could swing by and grab that fork hanging. Saturday morning would work on this end, too.


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RSorak 71Westy
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Post by RSorak 71Westy » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:00 pm

Yes loosen the bottom nut a few turns but leave it on to protect the threads in case you miss with the hammer. (Not that it matters as the threads are going to be replaced.) But just loosening the nut will not allow anything to come loose. The tapered part of the tie rod end will not easily come out of the steering knuckle. Hence the need for a trick or a pickle fork.
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ruckman101
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Post by ruckman101 » Tue Jul 21, 2009 7:05 pm

Ok, so got the tie-rod ends in, but have a bit to do still. According to our tape measure, the toe-in is at 1/16 of an inch. But, loosening the lock nut on the inner side of the passenger tie-rod, to adjust both sides, was elusive. No wrench, tight space. So it was all adjusted by turning the driver side tie-rod. Going to have to go back I suspect, as the steering wheel is wonky now. Initially the toe-in was over an inch. Three threads tighter, six total, got us to 1/16 of an inch.

And the boots are torn on the ball joints, so gotta hit the tears with a glob of grease.

I think I'm on the right track. Pickle forks were available here on the mountain, and the old ones came off without too much of a fight.


neal
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