Itinerant Air-Cooled

The replacement beam is on and now comes the fun of putting things back together. Is there a special tool or procedure to install the tie rods and drag link? I cant seem to get them fully seated.

-John

LiveonJG wrote: tie rods and drag link? I cant seem to get them fully seated.

? ? ?

They have tapered shanks that seat in tapered holes. Are the boots just riding too close to the joints themselves, leaving a shiny metal band underneath that you have never seen before? Can you yank the boots down to the contact surface? Are the nuts that hold them on properly down on the threads, even if they don't look seated? You can assume the depth of installation is adequate of you can see the cotter pin hole above the troughs of the castle nuts.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:

LiveonJG wrote: tie rods and drag link? I cant seem to get them fully seated.

? ? ?

They have tapered shanks that seat in tapered holes. Are the boots just riding too close to the joints themselves, leaving a shiny metal band underneath that you have never seen before? Can you yank the boots down to the contact surface? Are the nuts that hold them on properly down on the threads, even if they don't look seated? You can assume the depth of installation is adequate of you can see the cotter pin hole above the troughs of the castle nuts.
Colin

It must be the boots riding high as I can easily see the cotter pin holes. Mainly, they were in so tight beforehand that I can't imagine that simply tightening the castellated nuts enough to properly seat them. Sound like that concern is unfounded.

-John

What did you go with for tie rod replacement? I've got some torn boots, how does one know if just replacing the boots is all that is needed or if you need to replace the whole assembly?

chitwnvw wrote:What did you go with for tie rod replacement? I've got some torn boots, how does one know if just replacing the boots is all that is needed or if you need to replace the whole assembly?

Slop. Dirt.

John, do not exceed the correct assembly torque specifications. Tapered holes build up serious forces very rapidly, then they will NEVER come apart ever again.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:[

Slop. Dirt.

Am I supposed to take from these very concise instructions that if "slop and dirt" have penetrated the joint, that it is time for removal? Mine are cracked but all that's in them is grease.

Still I lack that return to center in my steering. Where are we getting replacements from? Bus Boys?

chitwnvw wrote:What did you go with for tie rod replacement? I've got some torn boots, how does one know if just replacing the boots is all that is needed or if you need to replace the whole assembly?

Reusing the existing, my front beam was rusted through and had a stress fracture running clear across the driver's side. Per Bently, as long as you can still move the pivots by hand and dirt hasn't made its way into the boots, the tie rods are ok.

-John

chitwnvw wrote: Am I supposed to take from these very concise instructions that if "slop and dirt" have penetrated the joint, that it is time for removal?

Slop is the real enemy. Dirt causes slop. . . over time. If sloppy, action is called-for now. Lack of return to center must be first addressed with correct tire pressures, correct steering box adjustment. Loose joints do not cause lousy return to center. New ones, however, will certainly aggravate lousy return to center.
Colin