Itinerant Air-Cooled

I've only noticed it once or maybe twice, and this is after I fixed an earlier grinding noise that turned out to be caused by a missing speedo cable C-clamp. However, sometimes I get a squealing/grinding from my driver's side wheel that I notice while coasting to a stop sign with my window down.

It seems to happen after a medium drive and the noise goes away during braking. I thought that it was time for new front brake pads and I have a good set ready to throw in so I jacked the front end up today to do the job. I noticed that the driver's side wheel doesn't turn freely because there isn't a space between the pads and the rotor. But before I took the caliper off I decided to put the bus away and seek advice before attempting the job because I'm afraid that my caliper may be frozen. What do you think?

By the way, the master cylinder was replaced this spring as was all of the rubber brake lines. My mechanic friend (and Vanagon owner) did the master cylinder job and I did the brake lines. I have a 1976 parts bus with calipers if I need to use them. Any thoughts...? Thanks.

Disk brake pads always ride right up against the rotors, so if there's a space you have a problem. Something is causing the drag on the drivers side. Inspect ill you find it...could be sticky frozen piston or clogged brake hose. The noise and the additional friction are probably related.

RSorak 71Westy wrote:Inspect ill you find it...could be sticky frozen piston or clogged brake hose. The noise and the additional friction are probably related.

Thanks; is there a preferred method for unsticking pistons? Do I need a special tool like they show in the Bentley?

BellePlaine wrote:

RSorak 71Westy wrote:Inspect ill you find it...could be sticky frozen piston or clogged brake hose. The noise and the additional friction are probably related.

Thanks; is there a preferred method for unsticking pistons? Do I need a special tool like they show in the Bentley?

For badly stuck pistons you need some little blocks of hardwood 1" thick that will fit in the pad openings. Double stack the side that allows the piston to retract. Just one for the side that is frozen. Don't go monkey (if you do decide to go ape, you can imprint the wood with the piston and lock the whole mess together for eternity), but press down the brake pedal firmly and quickly to see if serious hydraulic pressure will break it free. Check after the first stomp to see if any movement has occurred. Peel back the boot (if it is there) and give a squirt of PB Blaster. Stop pushing the piston out before it imprints the wood and prevents you from pulling it free. Either lock the steering wheel or turn the steering wheel so that the caliper you are working on is fully in the direction you need to pry the piston, i.e. outboard right piston, you need to have the steering wheel at full left lock. Get your broad wood chisel and lay it flat against the stuck piston, and apply prybar against the chisel, using the base of the disk friction surface at the hub as your pry point. Crack loose the bleeder screw a little bit. Get prying. Any movment? Always tap the bleeder screw closed just before you end your prying event. If you get the piston to retract fully, congratulations.
Colin
(p.s. the recommendation is to replace the caliper complete and promise to keep your DOT 3 + fluid fresh and change it every two years, synthetic you don't have to change)

This helps and I can visualize the process. Say, instead of double stacking the good side with blocks, any concern if I leave those brake pads in place while I "monkey" with the stuck side?