Brake bleeding question

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Bleed brakes at the unions or bleeder screws?

Bleeder screws
9
50%
Bleeder screws
9
50%
Unions
0
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Unions
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No votes
 
Total votes: 18

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Adventurewagen
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Brake bleeding question

Post by Adventurewagen » Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:26 am

While everything is hooked up I'm tempted to bleed my brakes. What I can't decide is whether or not to just make a mess and crack the brake lines or try to loosen the bleeders themselves. I already snapped the one off the clutch slave cylinder.

So what do you guys think? Should I just make a mess and bleed them at the union or try to put some pressure on the bleeder screws? They've all been cleaned and PB Blasted.
63 Gulf Blue Notch
71 Sierra Yellow Adventurewagen
DjEep wrote:Velo? Are you being "over-run"? Do you need to swim through a sea of Mexican anchor-babies to get to your bus in the morning?
:wav:

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Amskeptic
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Re: Brake bleeding question

Post by Amskeptic » Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:52 am

Adventurewagen wrote:While everything is hooked up I'm tempted to bleed my brakes. What I can't decide is whether or not to just make a mess and crack the brake lines or try to loosen the bleeders themselves. I already snapped the one off the clutch slave cylinder.

So what do you guys think? Should I just make a mess and bleed them at the union or try to put some pressure on the bleeder screws? They've all been cleaned and PB Blasted.
We at the Itinerant Air-Cooled Metallurgical Sensitivity Training Clinic™ suggest that you attempt to loosen the bleeder screws up to but not exceeding the metallurical limit of the bleeder screw in question. If aforementioned bleeder screw does not respond to your gentle-but-firm request, then you merely move on to Option B, cracking loose the union.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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Adventurewagen
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Post by Adventurewagen » Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:55 am

I'll combine the Itinerant Air-Cooled Metallurgical Sensitivity Training Clinic™ rules to my own "poor as dirt" rules and bleed at the unions.

So far I got both front brakes cracked so now I'll start from the back right and see how much of a mess I can make :)
63 Gulf Blue Notch
71 Sierra Yellow Adventurewagen
DjEep wrote:Velo? Are you being "over-run"? Do you need to swim through a sea of Mexican anchor-babies to get to your bus in the morning?
:wav:

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Adventurewagen
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Post by Adventurewagen » Fri Mar 13, 2009 12:19 pm

Well... New plans. I think I'm going to have to order new rear cylinders sometimes and maybe bleeder screws for the front calipers. Then when I have all those in I'll tackle it more.

I can't even get the rear brake lines free from the cylinders. There is no chance I'll ever get the bleeder screws loose.

Poor neglected bus :(
63 Gulf Blue Notch
71 Sierra Yellow Adventurewagen
DjEep wrote:Velo? Are you being "over-run"? Do you need to swim through a sea of Mexican anchor-babies to get to your bus in the morning?
:wav:

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dtrumbo
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Post by dtrumbo » Fri Mar 13, 2009 1:44 pm

Stay in yer seats! This is a hi-jackin'!

What's the official end-all on the order of brake bleeding. Is it furthest from the MC to the nearest or is it the nearest to the MC to the furthest? Ol' timers say to do it opposite what Bentley sez so I was curious in what order y'all figure we should bleed our brakes?

O.k. I'm done hi-jackin', y'all can get up and move around again.
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Fri Mar 13, 2009 3:03 pm

dtrumbo wrote:Stay in yer seats! This is a hi-jackin'!

What's the official end-all on the order of brake bleeding. Is it furthest from the MC to the nearest or is it the nearest to the MC to the furthest? Ol' timers say to do it opposite what Bentley sez so I was curious in what order y'all figure we should bleed our brakes?

O.k. I'm done hi-jackin', y'all can get up and move around again.
I do the front right, front left, rear right rear left. The front circuit in the master cylinder is at the rear of the bore. I like to have that filled before I start doing the stomps to get the rear fluid driven all the way back.
Honestly? I do not think it really really matters except that the right side be done before the left.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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spiffy
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Post by spiffy » Fri Mar 13, 2009 6:23 pm

I voted bleeder screws. On a four drum and dual master system such as the 67 bus I have starting at the right (passenger) rear. This pushes fluid and the air ALL the way thru the plumbing. By the time I get to the drivers side front I rarely have any gurgles er spits.
78 Riviera "Spiffy"
67 Riviera "Bill"

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dtrumbo
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Post by dtrumbo » Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:27 am

spiffy wrote:On a four drum and dual master system such as the 67 bus I have starting at the right (passenger) rear. This pushes fluid and the air ALL the way thru the plumbing. By the time I get to the drivers side front I rarely have any gurgles er spits.
This is how I've always done it as it made the most sense to me. It's interesting to hear the other methods used. It also seems that it might not matter if folks have had success using different methods.
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Sat Mar 14, 2009 10:26 am

dtrumbo wrote:
spiffy wrote:On a four drum and dual master system such as the 67 bus I have starting at the right (passenger) rear. This pushes fluid and the air ALL the way thru the plumbing. By the time I get to the drivers side front I rarely have any gurgles er spits.
This is how I've always done it as it made the most sense to me. It's interesting to hear the other methods used. It also seems that it might not matter if folks have had success using different methods.
You have to remember, before you come up with an explanation that makes perfect sense to you, that the front and rear circuits are completely independent of each other. In the old single circuit systems, you had to do furthest to closest in that order.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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dtrumbo
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Post by dtrumbo » Sat Mar 14, 2009 11:17 am

Amskeptic wrote:You have to remember, before you come up with an explanation that makes perfect sense to you, that the front and rear circuits are completely independent of each other. In the old single circuit systems, you had to do furthest to closest in that order.
Colin
Duh! Thanks for turning the light on for me! Now that I'm basking in that illumination, your procedure makes more sense. Thanks!
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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