I am writing this to chum the waters for some 'down home' repair tips and tricks. You know what I'm talking about, ...first you take the bailing wire, then you....
I am looking for a particular "repair idea" at the moment. The shift linkage rod ('80 vanagon), that connects to the manual tranny had a boot that covered the grease and the rod that guides the linkage. No boot, the grease dries, everything gets all stiff!! Not preferred.
THis was my attempt to make my own...
I cut a piece of bicycle tire tube, packed the connection with grease after cleaning, and clamped both sides with an ample "accordian" of slack. It lasted for about 4-6 months but has ripped and we are heading back to dried out, etc.. It doesn't appear to be damaging anything, or interfering with shifting. I have had no luck finding a replacement boot. Any ideas out there? (Not a bad run - 4-6 months. Cheap pieces- tube and zip ties).
I would be interested in hearing some tried and true tips that a v-dub schmoe should know. I'll be watching "Wayne's Question of the week" but maybe you know a cool solution to a problem.
Here's an example...
I have heard that the fuses can "refresh" their connection in the holder by gently turning the fuse in the holder. I'm told that this was intentional design. Makes sense. Seems to work.
Just funzies, o'course. But I know there must be some cool (and hopefully wacky) ideas out there.
"Homeschool" repair jobs
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
"Homeschool" repair jobs
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: "Homeschool" repair jobs
Use the bicycle inner tube method again. . . just don't cinch the plastic tie so much, torsion is the ripper. Make it less snug and the shift rod can rotate under the tube/tie and still provide a seal without stressing the tube.Gypsie wrote: bicycle tire tube lasted for about 4-6 months but has ripped
I have heard that the fuses can "refresh" their connection in the holder by gently turning the fuse in the holder. I'm told that this was intentional design.
The fuse design was arrived-at as a simply functional/economical solution. The twist-to-refresh was not really an intentional strategy. Use a light smear of De-Ox gel on all the springy fuse holder tabs in the fuse box and those connections will be good to go for decades.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- vwlover77
- IAC Addict!
- Location: North Canton, Ohio
- Status: Offline
Well, here's one. When trying to find out why my shifter was so sloppy, I discovered that the nylon/rubber bushing for the front of the shift rod was gone. Being a Sunday morning with no hope of getting a new one for a few days, I cut a small rectangular piece of plywood, drilled an appropriate size hole for the shift rod to slide through, drilled a hole for a bolt in the sheet metal bracket, and bolted it in place. Lubed everything with some grease, and over a year later, it's still there! It may transmit a little more noise than the correct bushing, but the shifter action is certainly nice and tight!
Don
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78 Westy
71 Super Beetle Convertible Autostick
"When we let our compassion go, we let go of whatever claim we have to the divine." - Bruce Springsteen
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78 Westy
71 Super Beetle Convertible Autostick
"When we let our compassion go, we let go of whatever claim we have to the divine." - Bruce Springsteen
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
There you go, a little ugly in a nice sort of way.vwlover77 wrote:Well, here's one. When trying to find out why my shifter was so sloppy, I discovered that the nylon/rubber bushing for the front of the shift rod was gone. Being a Sunday morning with no hope of getting a new one for a few days, I cut a small rectangular piece of plywood, drilled an appropriate size hole for the shift rod to slide through, drilled a hole for a bolt in the sheet metal bracket, and bolted it in place. Lubed everything with some grease, and over a year later, it's still there! It may transmit a little more noise than the correct bushing, but the shifter action is certainly nice and tight!
I have this stupid BMW interior light set-up with rocker switches that are held in by tiny loops of molded plastic. Driver's side map light rocker's loop failed, ergo! no map light. Whole @*$@_ assembly has to be replaced. Well, I just won't do that. Trying to figure out how to drill a paper clip sized hole through the cheap housing and rocker switch. Then, a paperclip shall serve as a hinge. Senseless time investment to avoid paying $130.00 for an "assembly."
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
'nother idea
I have a few crusty rust spots around my glass. Some leaking to the inside and soaking the carpet. (I let my dehumidifier run for the weekend in the van and pulled just about a quart of water out of her. The carpet is now dry and I am scrubbing the moldy growths out. ick!
I am trying a method I have heard from a "trusted air-cooled mechanic". This would be for tiny perforations. Smear some vaseline along the rusty area. It will fill the gaps, repel water and stay in place. This could be as a "stop gap" (nyuk nyuk) until another remedy is found, or as a regular maintenance issue, (wash van, clean windows, smear vaseline along rusty spots).
Sounds good. I will try and let you know.
I am trying a method I have heard from a "trusted air-cooled mechanic". This would be for tiny perforations. Smear some vaseline along the rusty area. It will fill the gaps, repel water and stay in place. This could be as a "stop gap" (nyuk nyuk) until another remedy is found, or as a regular maintenance issue, (wash van, clean windows, smear vaseline along rusty spots).
Sounds good. I will try and let you know.
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....