1977 Bus no start

[yondermtn]

1977 2.0 stock FI

Bus started after winter storage and ran great for several days of commuting to/from work etc.

Yesterday, got in at lunch, turned key and motor started to catch but never got going. Engine will crank but not start.

I put a fuel pressure gauge on and am getting about 30 psi.
Put my spare double relay on- no change
Put my spare coil on- no change
Put spare coil to dist. cable on- no change
added 3/4 gallon fuel- no change(fuel gauge doesn't work

I'm not so sure the coil is giving off spark. I had a helper turn the engine while holding the coil wire near the engine and did not see a spark. I'm not sure I was doing this test correctly, however. Also, my helper had to leave so I couldn't perform the same test on the spare coil.


What is my next course of action here?
The bus is at my office which is making this a little more difficult.
I'm a little rusty as far as wrenching on the bus as I just got it out of storage this week so sorry if I'm forgetting something.

Any help appreciated. off to search the forums...........
btw- I have a cheapo FLAPS ignition switch currently installed, about 3 years old.

Thanks,
C-

[dingo]

try the spark test again...once you verify yes or no, it will simplify greatly the rest of the diagnosis. Hold wire tip 1/4 inch from a good ground. i use plastic pliers

[poptop tom]

I'm not for certain, but would it still crank with a faulty ignition switch?

Mine died DEAD and wouldn't do shit.

[yondermtn]

That's the question I have now, Tom. Last time my ignition switch went out I had nothing. I saw in this thread that maybe the engine can crank with a bad switch.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... ight=spark

I used my multimeter on the + and - side of the coil with the key in the RUN position and am not getting any reading. I don't have a helper right now to test in the START position.
I do have an extra ignition switch which I may put in there when I get done here at work.

[Amskeptic]

That's the question I have now, Tom. Last time my ignition switch went out I had nothing. I saw in this thread that maybe the engine can crank with a bad switch.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... ight=spark

I used my multimeter on the + and - side of the coil with the key in the RUN position and am not getting any reading. I don't have a helper right now to test in the START position.
I do have an extra ignition switch which I may put in there when I get done here at work.

You realize that you must have your meter ground lead on metal? You don't get a voltage reading between (+) and (-) of the coil, unless the points happen to be closed at the time of measurement.
Hot wire the (+) of the coil to the battery (+). See if it starts. Get home. Investigate ignition switch circuit.
Colin

[yondermtn]

Hot wire the (+) of the coil to the battery (+). See if it starts. Get home. Investigate ignition switch circuit.
Colin

Tried this and got clicking noise from double relay and my idiot lights went on. Tried starting with wire in place and got nothing. I went ahead and put a spare ignition switch on and still have the same results.

What next?

Thanks

[yondermtn]

I went back and checked the distributor and I'm thinking it may not be opening/closing the points. I couldn't log in here on my phone so made this post.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 33fb11c518

What do you think? Colin, you pointed out my slop during your last visit, if you recall.

[Amskeptic]

I went back and checked the distributor and I'm thinking it may not be opening/closing the points. I couldn't log in here on my phone so made this post.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 33fb11c518

What do you think? Colin, you pointed out my slop during your last visit, if you recall.

If the rotor has sprung free of the drive slots, you will not be able to start it.

Simply loosen the 10mm clamp, push down on the entire distributor while wiggling it back and forth as you turn the rotor/shaft and try to find the slots, it will click downward. THIS TIME when you time it, keep a down pressure on the distributor as you tighten the 10mm clamp bolt. (you can see if it is home, right near the distributor clamp interface, no gap at all) If the clamp is boogered, get one that knows how to lie flat so the distributor can reach down.

[yondermtn]

Ok. I have tried applying downward pressure on the distributor and just cannot get it to stay in the slots. If I apply pressure to the rotor it seems to just barely want to stay in the slots, but when pressure on the rotor is released the rotor will then be able to spin outside the slots.

I believe that the teeth on my distributor are just too chewed up.

I have a spare distributor. http://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=186504
For some reason I have never been able to get my bus to run with this thing. However, when I install it, the teeth do grab as they should.

So now I think I need to get a replacement for my original distributor to get this thing going.

[Amskeptic]

Ok. I have tried applying downward pressure on the distributor and just cannot get it to stay in the slots. I have a spare distributor when I install it, the teeth do grab as they should.

Make the Bus Depot distributor work.

Put engine at #1 TDC. Verify at #3's rocker arms (they should both move in opposite directions as you rotate the engine a couple of degrees back and forth.

Stick the Bus Depot distributor down the hole with the vacuum can lined up with the bale on the breather box. Do the rotor push slot engagement deal. Where is the rotor once engaged? Let's say due straight into the fuel tank is 12 o'clock. You *should* have the rotor at about 4-5 PM. Then the distributor cap is slapped on and #1 better go to the terminal just above the rotor. From there it is 4-3-2- in the circle around the cap.

If it is a Pertronix, have you already smoked it from mixed up wires or leaving the ignition on too long, or is reasonable to assume that it works? The BobD almost killed me when it melted down in Los Alamos, PCB smoke noxious chemical doom smell. I stuck the points back in, couldn't be happier, runs fine, haven't even adjusted them since last July and 10,000 or so miles ago.
Colin

[SlowLane]

From there it is 4-3-2- clockwise in the circle around the cap.

Just to be absolutely clear...

Then again, how long will it be before terms like "clockwise" and "counter-clockwise" become a barrier to communication? I know my stepdaughter never learned how to read an analog clock. I'm sure she's not the only one of her generation.

Ah, jeez, there I go careening off-topic again...

[Amskeptic]

From there it is 4-3-2- clockwise in the circle around the cap.

Just to be absolutely clear...

Then again, how long will it be before terms like "clockwise" and counter-clockwise" become a barrier to communication? I know my stepdaughter never learned how to read an analog clock. I'm sure she's not the only one of her generation.

Civilization deserves to collapse. Digital was not is not will not be better than analog. Digital, in the clock world, was just cheaper.
Cranklin

[yondermtn]

Success

I tried the bus depot distributor again following Colin's direction. I couldn't get the pertronix to work so I put some points in and after some critical thinking and a few attempts I got it going.
I found out that my initial timing was just way off. The vacuum in the new distributor is oriented a little differently than my old one. When I put the cap on I could tell the rotor was not close to the #1 wire. It had to be turned counterclockwise a good bit.

I might try the pertronix again.

[Amskeptic]

Success

Excellent. A running bus is a fine thing, and all the aggravation melts away in a day.
Colin