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Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:49 pm
by Amskeptic
ruckman101 wrote:
Distributor:
VW 113 905 205 T
Q231 137 035
Carb:
H30/31 pict
Plugs:
On the plug itself, Bosch WR8AC+ Germany 983
That thar's a hothead.
Hard to tell if there was foreign object dancing around in there?
The vacuum only distributors require a correct vacuum only carburetor. The Pict number helps us know. A Pict 2 carburetor is a definite vacuum only ready carb. A 30 Pict 3 is vacuum only. A 34 Pict 3 is NOT a vacuum only distributor ready carb. It was designed for the dual advance + centrifugal advance distributors supplied from 1971 on. The 30/31 Pict 3 is a replacement carb whose vacuum signal I do not know can run the vacuum-only distributor.
Was this an unknown engine, or an engine you have been in before?
Colin
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:43 pm
by ruckman101
Back to the top and watch the vid. The engine from sister bus Ramona, transmission, too. Main oil seal leak addressed and put to task when my first pride and joy all my own rebuild gave up the ghost a few weeks into my efforts to build a new motor and put a new transmission into Gretchen Ghia. Both cars down. Emergency.
Stripped it down a bit, but essentially put in a new main oil seal and ran it.
Never again will I not run a wrench over what I can when I have an opportunity.
neal
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:49 pm
by ruckman101
My suspicion is that the only thing dancing about were chunks of piston deteriorating. There was a big'un lurking behind the oil pump, a good 3/8 inch still square. The glowing deposits, again, I suspect are chunks of piston flattened onto piston and head. Like real new. I was surprised the oil was as clean and free of ugly metallic swirlies as it was.
Full day tomorrow, including cutting a path to Ramona for a visit. So Monday before I puzzle a timing check with an ohm meter, and split the case.
neal
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 3:05 pm
by ruckman101
Every spark pulse appears to be hitting at the same spot. I see no difference. Same with the pistons. The all seem to be hitting TDC at the same point. Am I missing something? And how exactly does offsetting the firing timing of cylinder #3 help it stay cooler with a non-doghouse oil cooler set-up? My mind isn't wrapping around the concept.
neal
Amskeptic wrote: Neal, the breaker lobes are what trigger the spark. The #3 breaker cam lobe was ground 3* after all the others. Can you believe it?
So, if the distributor is still in the case, bolted down, we have a forensics moment! You must do an ohmmeter test to catch the *instant* that the points open on #1, look at the timing mark in relation to the case seam, then rotate the engine exactly one turn and it will be the same timing mark, but since it is now on #3 it better be further along than it was for #1. If it triggers the ohmmeter *before* #1 did, let me know.
Questions? (ohmmeter red lead to the wire going to points, black lead to a good ground)
Colin
[edited August 21, 2:12PM CDT]
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:42 pm
by ruckman101
Alright, redid the test.
It would appear, yes, cylinder #3 is 3 degrees off from cylinder #1. But not before, after.
Let me try to be specific, as the engine turns over the pulley spins clockwise, and as the marks pass the case seam we see 30 degrees first, then 7.5 degrees, then 5 degrees, then zero where cylinder #1 fires, then, yes about 3 degrees later, cylinder #3 fires. So firing three degrees later/after compared to cylinder #1.
I hope that's clear.
On another note: How did you do that Colin? It took me until now to see your reply, as it is under my profile, as in edited and added.
neal
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:18 pm
by ruckman101
Main jet is 120. I believe the ventura size is slightly larger than the 30 Pict-3, at 25.5 mm instead of 24 mm. H30/31 Pict.
neal
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 12:11 pm
by Amskeptic
ruckman101 wrote:
On another note: How did you do that Colin? It took me until now to see your reply, as it is under my profile, as in edited and added.
neal
How did I do that? I'll tell you how I did that.
Mr. Administrator Moderator GodDespot on High has too damn many buttons to fool with, and I hit the "edit" button instead of the "quote" button."
So I need to surround my answer in your post with a "quote bracket".
Colin
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:08 pm
by ruckman101
Running lean because the intake manifold wasn't tight on the #3/#4 head is the direction I am now leaning.
neal
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:18 am
by Amskeptic
ruckman101 wrote:Running lean because the intake manifold wasn't tight on the #3/#4 head is the direction I am now leaning.
neal
You and I need a day of Volkswagen Intuition. It would help you tune your senses. You could drive Chloe to get the baseline performance expectation, then when your engine develops an intake manifold leak, you'd say, "hey, this engine is feeling punk, I need to investigate."
Colin
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:41 am
by ruckman101
First times for everything. Would a vacuum leak like that contribute to deceleration popping?
neal
Re: Overheated. Bertha issues.
Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:47 am
by Amskeptic
ruckman101 wrote:First times for everything. Would a vacuum leak like that contribute to deceleration popping?
neal
Sure. As would other things, like exhaust leaks. Chloe backfired all through the mountains and I investigated and knew that it was exhaust leaks only. Sometimes they would get worse as I dropped in elevation. That was because the mixture leans out as you get closer to sea level, so I would richen it a tad.
A one-side-only leak is more deadly of course. The dual carb buses with brake booster elbows could kill a single cylinder and you'd hardly know it because the other side of the engine was masking the loss in power. Single carb buses will react more globally.
Colin