Horn
- Randy in Maine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Old Orchard Beach, Maine
- Status: Offline
Horn
79 bus
I had my steering wheel off the other day and now my horn blows when not pointed in a straight ahead direction. I know that the horn is always live and it is just looking for a ground all of the time.
BTW, I noticed when I re-installed it that I only have one spring for the 3 screws that hold the metal grounding disc on the wheel. I think it ws like that when I took it out. Should I have 3 springs for the 3 screws?
From the wheel I have it put in like this:
wheel (nut torqued to 36 foot pounds)
black plastic insulator with the spade connector going through
metal grounding disc with the 3 screws and one spring
button
I should know the answer to this but I can't remember what it is. It is not the years, it is the miles.
I had my steering wheel off the other day and now my horn blows when not pointed in a straight ahead direction. I know that the horn is always live and it is just looking for a ground all of the time.
BTW, I noticed when I re-installed it that I only have one spring for the 3 screws that hold the metal grounding disc on the wheel. I think it ws like that when I took it out. Should I have 3 springs for the 3 screws?
From the wheel I have it put in like this:
wheel (nut torqued to 36 foot pounds)
black plastic insulator with the spade connector going through
metal grounding disc with the 3 screws and one spring
button
I should know the answer to this but I can't remember what it is. It is not the years, it is the miles.
79 VW Bus
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: Horn
Because it is specifically related to direction,Randy in Maine wrote:
I had my steering wheel off the other day and now my horn blows when not pointed in a straight ahead direction.
I think you are grounding between the column and the steering shaft. Luckily you can keep noise to a minimum with the ignition switch.
Turn on the ignition and move the steering wheel to the blow point.
Shut off ignition.
Loosen the two screws at the base of the column until you can sort of move it around.
Turn on ignition and see if you can get the horn to shush.
Tighten screws when you fijnd the spot.
Let me know if this worked.
Colin
- DjEep
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Nowhere, Fast
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The horn in our westy did that, it's nice on one lane mountain roads....
now it doesn't beep at all, pulled the button of and pulled the wire off it's terminal and it sparked when I touched it to ground. ??
now it doesn't beep at all, pulled the button of and pulled the wire off it's terminal and it sparked when I touched it to ground. ??
"Live life, love life. Enjoy the pleasures and the sorrows. For it is the bleak valleys, the dark corners that make the peaks all the more magnificent. And once you realize that, you begin to see the beauty hidden within those valleys, and learn to love the climb." - Anonymous
Do you want to Survive? Or do you want to LIVE?
Do you want to Survive? Or do you want to LIVE?
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- IAC Addict!
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1977 Bay.Three springs, a plastic piece to keep the screw heads insulated from the ring. Some plastic rings have nubs to fit into the screw holes some don't, those that don't use little plastic inserts to keep the screw shaft from touching the side of the holes. These pieces can be fabricated from hardware store shtuff by a handy yankee like you
Clean the contact ring while your in there.
Bill
![joker :joker:](./images/smilies/icon_joker.gif)
Clean the contact ring while your in there.
Bill
- Randy in Maine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Old Orchard Beach, Maine
- Status: Offline
I am going to play with it today to see what I can get it to do. Or not do.
How important is it to have 3 springs in there? Where would I get a couple more springs? Lowes? Ball point pen? Karl?
One more question.
Could someone take a photo of how their defroster or heater selector mounts on the tube down by the drivers right foot? I have mine mounted and it sort of works but not really. Clip, cable, spring and selector are all there , but I must have the the cable mounted at a wierd angle or something.
Thanks!
Not winter here yet but it is getting closer. I have December 13th as my "date" for enough snow to fall to fully cover a tennis ball in the "fire ring" in my back yard. The beach has not been crowded which is a plus.
How important is it to have 3 springs in there? Where would I get a couple more springs? Lowes? Ball point pen? Karl?
One more question.
Could someone take a photo of how their defroster or heater selector mounts on the tube down by the drivers right foot? I have mine mounted and it sort of works but not really. Clip, cable, spring and selector are all there , but I must have the the cable mounted at a wierd angle or something.
Thanks!
Not winter here yet but it is getting closer. I have December 13th as my "date" for enough snow to fall to fully cover a tennis ball in the "fire ring" in my back yard. The beach has not been crowded which is a plus.
79 VW Bus
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
3 points make a plane. You want evey spring. Ball point pen sounds intriguing, a little too soft perhaps.Randy in Maine wrote: How important is it to have 3 springs in there? Where would I get a couple more springs? Lowes? Ball point pen? Karl?
That is a double cable. The other one goes to the central distribution valve located under the vehicle. If it is jammed up, the whole deal is balky. Cable sheath clamped with clip to bracket, cable end to lever on tube is as simple as it gets. Remove cable end from lever and see if lever is free to move. Do the same under the car where access is a bit more annoying on an inclement day in Maine. If the levers are free, the problem is in the cable/sheaths. Any kinks screw up the works quickly.Randy in Maine wrote: Could someone take a photo of how their defroster or heater selector mounts on the tube down by the drivers right foot? I have mine mounted and it sort of works but not really. Clip, cable, spring and selector are all there , but I must have the the cable mounted at a weird angle or something.
Colin
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The three springs lift the ring evenly after honking so it doesn't get cocked and wedged on the screws. Bring the screws, the one spring, the metal ring, and the plastic pieces you have.
The idea is that the metal ring that is held by the screws cannot have any contact with the screws or springs at all. The screws and springs are a direct ground.
If the plastic ring is in good shape and has the nubs that go into the screw holes just get 3 identical springs and some fiber washers to keep the springs off the metal ring. If no nubs are on the plastic ring get some nylon bushings with flanges on one end to fit the holes in the metal ring and a large enough flange to keep the spring off the metal ring. You will probably have to make do with what is available. Such as drill out the bushing so the screws will go thru, grind a flat on the flange so it will fit the ring, shorten the length of the bushing so it is short enough etc...
The metal ring cannot have any contact with the screws or springs. The nut and bolt aisle is your friend!
Bill
The idea is that the metal ring that is held by the screws cannot have any contact with the screws or springs at all. The screws and springs are a direct ground.
If the plastic ring is in good shape and has the nubs that go into the screw holes just get 3 identical springs and some fiber washers to keep the springs off the metal ring. If no nubs are on the plastic ring get some nylon bushings with flanges on one end to fit the holes in the metal ring and a large enough flange to keep the spring off the metal ring. You will probably have to make do with what is available. Such as drill out the bushing so the screws will go thru, grind a flat on the flange so it will fit the ring, shorten the length of the bushing so it is short enough etc...
The metal ring cannot have any contact with the screws or springs. The nut and bolt aisle is your friend!
Bill
- Randy in Maine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Old Orchard Beach, Maine
- Status: Offline
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- I'm New!
- Location: Big Sur, California
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My horn used to honk sometimes when the steering wheel was turned. Never seemed to be at the same turn location and did not happen all the time. Figured that the wire that goes down the column must have a worn spot. To fix, I bought a long tube of heat shrink tubing, slipped it over the wire and trimmed top just enough to allow connector to be free. It has not honked once when not wanted since.
You can lead an aircooled to water, but you can't make it drink!
- JLT
- Old School!
- Location: Sacramento CA
- Status: Offline
Re:
I bet you thought this thread was dead? Wrong, wrong, wrong!Opossum wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:01 amMy horn used to honk sometimes when the steering wheel was turned. Never seemed to be at the same turn location and did not happen all the time. Figured that the wire that goes down the column must have a worn spot. To fix, I bought a long tube of heat shrink tubing, slipped it over the wire and trimmed top just enough to allow connector to be free. It has not honked once when not wanted since.
The same thing just happened to me. Remembering what a PITA it was when it happened to me with one of my first buses, many decades ago, I did what Opossum did: take some 1/4" heat-shrink, slide it into the column, and mark off exactly what I needed. I snipped off the excess and ran a string through the heat-shrink. Tied the other end of the string to a paper clip and threaded the other end of the paper clip through a 1/4" male spade connector. Slipped the connector onto the end of the horn wire and coaxed the heat-shrink down into the column, using the string to keep tension on the wire so it didn't want to bunch. When the horn wire was completely through the heat-shrink, I unplugged the connector and pushed the horn wire back onto its connecter on the horn ring.
I sure hope that this cure works the way the Possum's did. I'll let you know if it doesn't.
I think this thread will never really die until the last bus rides into the sunset, or people do what Static did: replace the horn button with a momentary contact switch on his dash to ground the horn.
-- JLT
Sacramento CA
Present bus: '71 Dormobile Westie "George"
(sometimes towing a '65 Allstate single-wheel trailer)
Former buses: '61 17-window Deluxe "Pink Bus"
'70 Frankenwestie "Blunder Bus"
'71 Frankenwestie "Thunder Bus"
Sacramento CA
Present bus: '71 Dormobile Westie "George"
(sometimes towing a '65 Allstate single-wheel trailer)
Former buses: '61 17-window Deluxe "Pink Bus"
'70 Frankenwestie "Blunder Bus"
'71 Frankenwestie "Thunder Bus"
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- IAC Addict!
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Re: Horn
My horn seems to have both a speed sensor and a collision sensor... it won't honk unless I'm doing at least 10 mph, but when I really need it most ... like in a pending collision...yeah, no, it decides not to work.
1976 VW Bus aka tripod
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!![::troll2::](./images/smilies/troll2.gif)
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
hambone wrote: There are those out there with no other aim but to bunch panties. It's like arguing with a pretzel.
![::troll2::](./images/smilies/troll2.gif)
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Re: Horn
I replaced my ignition switch last year after having an intermittent no power problem. When I removed my steering wheel I found the horn contact ring on the steering wheel was worn through and the contact for the column was all mangled. My horn has been intermittent since we purchased our bus but not going off by itself would only work once in a while. I had to replace the turn signal switch and find a new contact ring to get ours working again. Im sure you looked at all that stuff when you have it out but just in case you didn't and continue to have problems you might double check all that stuff. All wear points.