Door Seals

Bus, Microbus, Transporter, Station Wagon, Vanagon, Camper, Pick-Up.

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RussellK
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Door Seals

Post by RussellK » Mon Sep 18, 2006 9:34 am

I replaced the driver & passenger door seals over the weekend. The seals came from WCM and seemed to fit pretty well. The only drawback is now the doors are not flush with the body at the rearward lower edge of both doors. I'm guessing the rubber needs a little time to break in and then an adjustment on the doors. Anyone have any experience to share with this?

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Amskeptic
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Re: Door Seals

Post by Amskeptic » Mon Sep 18, 2006 10:24 am

RussellK wrote:I replaced the driver & passenger door seals over the weekend. The seals came from WCM and seemed to fit pretty well. The only drawback is now the doors are not flush with the body at the rearward lower edge of both doors. I'm guessing the rubber needs a little time to break in and then an adjustment on the doors. Anyone have any experience to share with this?
You are correct. If the doors are closing hard and opening with difficulty, let out the striker plates a bit so there is not so much stress on the latching. Doors are supposed to be 1/2-1 mm out from the body along the rear edge.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

RussellK
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Post by RussellK » Tue Sep 19, 2006 7:19 am

As a follow up to the original post it has been slightly under 72 hours and they are already settling in. As an aside, the latches were not functioning correctly without the seals but are now working perfectly with the seals installed

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:21 am

Could we get some pics of this job? I just did this myself and would like to see someone else's finished product (a shot from the inside with door open and a pic of the rubber on the outside with the door open to see the over lap). If you did the window scrapers too, i'd like to know how that went. I had a BEAR of a time with that myself. Brand new paint getting scrated by the stupid "crome" molding (yes i put tape on the paint job)! and still water gets in!!!!! ](*,)

Thanks
73 Westy
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[Crane ignition system out]
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RussellK
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Post by RussellK » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:50 am

Yes I'll take some photos. I did the passenger door and my son did the driver side. Maybe you can settle our argument which side was done best. Of course he claims my eyesight must be fading due to advanced age.

I haven't done the scrapers, they are next.

-Russ

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Wed Sep 20, 2006 8:50 am

It's fun keeping the rubber in place while the black goo dries...I did both my front doors, it was messy and irritating but not too hard. Just the seals anyway, my scrapers are still ok. I do need to replace the vent window seal someday, not looking forward to that.

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Wed Sep 20, 2006 9:30 am

I do need to replace the vent window seal someday, not looking forward to that.
That is a big HELL NO! My vent window seal is new but still leaks!

I would post some strategies that worked but after doing two vent windows I don't have many positive things to say. I might be able to help with the removal and installation of the window but that is about it. I'm sorry to be so negative.

Look forward to seeing those pics RussellK!
73 Westy
1700
Weber single progressive
[Crane ignition system out]
SVDA and points

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:20 am

Was the replacement part the trouble, or was it the procedures that made you crazy? So many crappy aftermarket parts out there...

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Wed Sep 20, 2006 11:10 am

iwantmybustorun wrote:
My vent window seal is new but still leaks!
Water is supposed to course into the door. The scrapers have more to do with the wind noise.

Leaks into the interior are because the vapor barrier is allowing water in. The damndest thing is the way VW constructs the vapor barrier for buses with the air extractors in the front doors (by the way, keep those blue knobs forward, that improves ventilation and heat).

The vapor barriers are two piece . The piece closest to the inner door panel is the big one with a little window cut in it for the air extractor.
Then there is a large flap that is glued to the big one, all the way across the door just above the air extractor. This one is stuffed into the door behind the entire air extractor assembly. . . the damned part of it, is that it must extend to the front of the door.

Over a decade I made up millions of little flaps over the air extractor because my water leaks would show drops all around the air extractor grill. The leaks came back over and over. wtf? Finally performed an exploratory on BobD's bus and found how huge the flap is supposed to be.
Colin
(I'll do a write-up on this annoying situation)
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Wed Sep 20, 2006 11:54 am

Water is supposed to course into the door.
I did not know it was supposed to. (Even through the vent window rubber?) I just thought it was designed to take and drain the excess that made its way through.
The scrapers have more to do with the wind noise.
I did not know this either!!!
I feel better now about my scraper job. Thanks.
Was the replacement part the trouble, or was it the procedures that made you crazy? So many crappy aftermarket parts out there...
Both. I used bus depot rubber and the original vent window. I heard the depot had good rubber and door seals so I ordered all from them to get their 10% discount. this was about 2 years ago.
The hole in the rubber was very difficult to line up with the adjusting / pivoting post of the vent window and the removal and installation of the window was not easy either. There was a lot of wiggling going on. You'll see. By the way. be sure to take the window out before you attempt to take the vent window out. it will make it easier. This is one of the reasons i did the scrapers at the same time.

It is possible!!! I did do it. Don't be discouraged. I may just be an idiot.
I just did not find it to be one of the "fun" bus projects. But which ones are???
It is a sick addiction!!! Can we raise our glass to that? Cheers!
73 Westy
1700
Weber single progressive
[Crane ignition system out]
SVDA and points

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chitwnvw
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Post by chitwnvw » Wed Sep 20, 2006 12:44 pm

iwantmybustorun wrote: ...It is a sick addiction!!! Can we raise our glass to that? Cheers!
Hail, hail!

vdubyah73
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Post by vdubyah73 » Wed Sep 20, 2006 4:24 pm

My passenger door vent wing whistles if all other windows are closed. Just live with it? I was thinking, no dreading the thought of doing the seal on these. Other adjustments to the latch possible? The whole mechanism and seal seems to be in good shape. The seal is still pliable, but the latch would work better if there is a way to tighten it up a bit.

Bill

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:07 pm

This is an adjustable frame. check your Bentley. I think it tells you pretty clearly how to move and adjust it. If the window opens too easily it can be tightened by a screw to increase the friction. if it is the closing mechanism that is not keeping it closed enough then you might think about getting a new rubber piece that fits in the window channel. easy part to get but not sure how easy it is to install without taking the window out.
73 Westy
1700
Weber single progressive
[Crane ignition system out]
SVDA and points

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:09 pm

vdubyah73 wrote:My passenger door vent wing whistles if all other windows are closed. Just live with it? I was thinking, no dreading the thought of doing the seal on these. Other adjustments to the latch possible? The whole mechanism and seal seems to be in good shape. The seal is still pliable, but the latch would work better if there is a way to tighten it up a bit.

Bill
Blue knob forward? If no, make yes. Check for cessation of noise. Blue knob back? If no, make it back. Check for cessation of noise.
No? Vapor barrier needs replacement or tweaking.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

vdubyah73
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Post by vdubyah73 » Thu Sep 21, 2006 3:52 am

Front vents closed but leaking, no seals . Ok that is on my good heat to do list any way. I'll give that a try. Was just gonna try hardware store weather strip on it.

Bill

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