New engine build

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Westy78
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New engine build

Post by Westy78 » Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:04 pm

I received some of the parts for my new engine rebuild for next weekend when Colin comes to visit. I bought another case so I could keep my current engine as spare if ever needed. Question, after splitting the case how should I go about making sure everything is spotless inside and out? How about removing the case sealent? The outside I can handle but I want to make sure the galleys and sump nooks and crannies are clear and clean. I suppose I could blow them out with a compressor after a good spray? More pics of the kit and heads done by Len Hoffman in my personal gallery.

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[albumimg]55[/albumimg] [albumimg]53[/albumimg]

[albumimg]52[/albumimg] [albumimg]51[/albumimg]

[albumimg]50[/albumimg] [albumimg]49[/albumimg]
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Sluggo
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Post by Sluggo » Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:32 pm

Gunk engine de-greaser (the gel kind), brake cleaner, wire brushes, simple green and compressed air. Do it 5 times. Then have it washed.You'll end up with an engine like this inside.

[albumimg]62[/albumimg]
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
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Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:40 pm

Sounds like a plan Sluggo. What do you mean by "have it washed"? The inside of this case is already pretty clean but I want it clean enough to eat off. =P~ What did you use to get the old case sealent off?

Oh, and is there a trick besides using a case splitter to get the case apart? I think my neighbor has a splitter but just in case.
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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Fri Sep 01, 2006 12:49 am

Westy78 wrote: What did you use to get the old case sealent off?

Oh, and is there a trick besides using a case splitter to get the case apart? I think my neighbor has a splitter but just in case.
GumOut carb spray and a rag works fine on case sealant, it just takes time but it is easy on the critical mating surfaces.

With all bolts out, including that left-side-by-the-bell-housing 13mm job, you can split the case using a hammer handle at the breather tower to wedge apart at the upper end. You can also use a block of wood and the business end of a hammer to tap the case webs behind the flywheel.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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VWBusrepairman
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Post by VWBusrepairman » Fri Sep 01, 2006 4:26 am

Dawn- it takes grease out of your way. when I split my case, I cleaned it thoroughly with a toothbrush and warm soapy water then allowed it to dry in the afternoon sun. The cleaner an engine is, the better and less chance of debris getting in to an oil passage. :pirate:
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Randy in Maine
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Post by Randy in Maine » Fri Sep 01, 2006 1:14 pm

You will be tapping in new gallery plugs anyway so drill them out, tap them, remove them and then take the case to an auto transmission place and have it run through the "core cleaner" for $25.

They are set up to do aluminum transmissions where as a usual machine shop is not.
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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Fri Sep 01, 2006 3:58 pm

Randy in Maine wrote:You will be tapping in new gallery plugs anyway so drill them out, tap them, remove them and then take the case to an auto transmission place and have it run through the "core cleaner" for $25.

They are set up to do aluminum transmissions where as a usual machine shop is not.


The galley plugs are already drilled and tapped but I'll look into the transmission shop for a cleaning. Thanks Randy. Should I leave the case halves together for the cleaning or split the case before taking it in? I would think splitting it would get the inside cleaner but worry about the guys handling it and knocking it around with the exposed innards. Now if the FedEx truck would just get here with the rest of my toys....
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Randy in Maine
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Post by Randy in Maine » Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:16 am

I would leave it split apart for the cleaning.

Keep us updated on how it is going.
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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:47 am

Randy in Maine wrote:I would leave it split apart for the cleaning.

Keep us updated on how it is going.
Will do. I'm going to get the case apart today and start cleaning. I'm still waiting on the third case of parts from FedEx. Seems they loaded it on the wrong truck on Wednesday and it ended up in Yakima WA instead of here. Now it won't be here 'till the 5th. :angry5: Figures, it's the one with the majority of the order. All I have so far is the heads, pushrods/tubes, clutch plate and the case along with some gears and clips.
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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Sat Sep 02, 2006 4:28 pm

And we have clean case. After struggling to get the case apart I went after it with some Castrol purple cleaner, carb spray and a scrub brush. I don't think it's going to get any cleaner than this. No need to have it washed I think. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll keep this thread updated as the build continues this Friday.

[albumimg]63[/albumimg]

[albumimg]64[/albumimg]
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Sluggo
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Post by Sluggo » Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:25 pm

Westy78 wrote:And we have clean case. After struggling to get the case apart I went after it with some Castrol purple cleaner, carb spray and a scrub brush. I don't think it's going to get any cleaner than this. No need to have it washed I think. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll keep this thread updated as the build continues this Friday.
Very nice. But I'd still have it cleaned. There's no way you got into the galleys unless you removed the plugs.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Sat Sep 02, 2006 8:40 pm

Sluggo wrote:
Westy78 wrote:And we have clean case. After struggling to get the case apart I went after it with some Castrol purple cleaner, carb spray and a scrub brush. I don't think it's going to get any cleaner than this. No need to have it washed I think. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll keep this thread updated as the build continues this Friday.
Very nice. But I'd still have it cleaned. There's no way you got into the galleys unless you removed the plugs.
Thanks. Plugs have already been removed and tapped by Jake. Took the jet nozzle on the hose and gave them a good douching then blew them out with the compressor. Should be good to go.
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bottomend
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Post by bottomend » Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:43 pm

What is this "case splitter" you mentioned? Anything like a log splitter?

It was once said ( by a wise old fool) to clean that case so you could perform a medical operation in there. Is yours THAT clean?

The problem arises when we start to talk about "parts contamination" while building the engine. The inside may be spotless ( spent the most time there, right?!) but you may have missed some gunk on the outside or around the bolt holes ect. All it takes is some little particals to get on your fingers that are then transfered to the other "clean" parts to become wedged between the crank journals and the rod journals to mess stuff up BIG TIME. You wont even know untill everything is tourqued down and you give the crank a spin... and nothing happens.

After you go over and over the case to clean all the different layers of dirt and grime, a good soak/bath/dunk in the professional tank ENSURES that it's ready. I dont even take the thing to the tank untill I know it's clean enough to assemble. The tank is the insurance. Sluggo as my witness.

After the bath, wrap it up in a nice clean , brand new garbage bag and set it aside for when you need it. Keep you hands as clean as when you eat (this wont apply to some of us!)...then onto the surgery.

Heres the bottome line when assembling an engine; I'll use Sluggos recent build as an example.
We were meticulous during everystep of the cleaning/prep/assembly of his engine. Nothing was rushed, passed over or short changed. And still he's haveing issues but.... we KNOW that the inside of that engine is without flaw ( ok, there is one flaw but we know where it is and it'll be taken care of when the time comes..)

Imagine if we had to start second guessing weather or not dirt inside the engine has caused the gas flooding problem. I wouldn't know where to start the search.

The one aspect of engine building that is completely within YOUR control ( not being a professional builder) is the ability to clean at least as good, if not better than a professional. Exploit that aspect untill Simple Green is running out of your nose.

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Sluggo
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Post by Sluggo » Mon Sep 04, 2006 5:37 pm

I still smell simple green and I haven't used it in almost 2 months. I think it soaked into my bloodstream and is now seeping out my pores. Smells good though.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

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bottomend
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Post by bottomend » Mon Sep 04, 2006 9:04 pm

When simple green is "shooting" out of another opening... then you know you've used enough.

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