Itinerant Air-Cooled

Looks good.

Is that, is that, is that a Hack Hole For The Fuel Sender?

I have a new experiment for the low cold Raby cam idle issue . . .
Colin

The "hack hole" you refer to was originally just that, a hacked up hole with duct tape over it. After I bought her I saw that something more was needed. So, after some research I found where others had used a boat's access port to put in place of the duct tape. It is not perfect, however, it certainly is better than silver duct tape.

So, tell me more of this low cam idle cure of which you speak.

jackstar wrote:The "hack hole" you refer to was originally just that, a hacked up hole with duct tape over it. After I bought her I saw that something more was needed. So, after some research I found where others had used a boat's access port to put in place of the duct tape. It is not perfect, however, it certainly is better than silver duct tape.

So, tell me more of this low cam idle cure of which you speak.

Custom narrowed centrifugal advance curve . . .
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:

jackstar wrote:The "hack hole" you refer to was originally just that, a hacked up hole with duct tape over it. After I bought her I saw that something more was needed. So, after some research I found where others had used a boat's access port to put in place of the duct tape. It is not perfect, however, it certainly is better than silver duct tape.

So, tell me more of this low cam idle cure of which you speak.

Custom narrowed centrifugal advance curve . . .
Colin

So a higher initial advance but retaining the 28° total?

Westy78 wrote:

Amskeptic wrote:

jackstar wrote:The "hack hole" you refer to was originally just that, a hacked up hole with duct tape over it. After I bought her I saw that something more was needed. So, after some research I found where others had used a boat's access port to put in place of the duct tape. It is not perfect, however, it certainly is better than silver duct tape.

So, tell me more of this low cam idle cure of which you speak.

Custom narrowed centrifugal advance curve . . .
Colin

So a higher initial advance but retaining the 28° total?

Yes, compensating for the lousy vacuum signal that occurs with high-overlap camshafts. We did pretty good with a 12-28* range.
Colin

That would be an ez-pz with digital distributor I know off. I'm idling at 30 BTDC at idle with mine...

luftvagon wrote:That would be an ez-pz with digital distributor I know off. I'm idling at 30 BTDC at idle with mine...

Why? Because you can?

Do you know why retard is used at idle for many VW engines? Wait, I'll tell you.
Keeps the exhaust system warm for lower emissions and better heater performance and what the heck, cylinder head thermal stability. Sure, I will use 12* at idle for a Raby engine, but 30*? What is your scientific reasoning here?
ColinJackstarWestfaliaThreadHijack

These are two pics of the passenger door with 3 coats of color and 2 of clear. The slider is already done and is undercover. We are "panel painting". the front interior is still to be done but that is coming. My painter/body guy is absolutely excellent.
[imghttp://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag59/jackatlaw/passengerdoorinterior2_zpsd1fa0dee.jpg][/img]

Hi Jackstar,

Great resto!

Question: What kind of paint is your body shop using? A single stage paint? Water based?

I'm going through the same process and want to make sure my shop is doing it right.

James

James,

My painter said it is a base coat, clear coat poly-urethane system. It is not water based. Keep us advised on your progress with lots of pictures.

Jack

jackstar wrote:James,

My painter said it is a base coat, clear coat poly-urethane system. It is not water based. Keep us advised on your progress with lots of pictures.

Jack

I do not recommend a two-stage for solid colors. It makes touch-up difficult. Several coats of high quality single-stage gives you many more years of being able to polish and wax and touch up. Clearcoats get rubbed through then you have patchy oxidation. Some clearcoats "craze" in sunlight (look at any 10 year-old General Motors car).

Painters may push the clearcoats because they seduce you with shiny-ness. If your painter gives a spirited defense with vehement declarations of my erroneous information, post it here,
Colin

These are pics of what we did yesterday. The front seats are out and the dash, etc is taped and papered. Today the front gets a coat of Rhino liner followed by color and clear. The door jambs will be next. I am saving the driver's door as a template on how to put the passenger door back together. Once the front cockpit is finished, the nose, driver's door, back hatches, driver's side panel and last the roof will be tackled. Once that is complete then comes the not so fun portion of putting it all back together correctly. Yeah!! Enjoy.

What an undertaking!