?

[72Hardtop]

Passenger side between cylinder 1 pushrod tubes there is a control valve and above that and to the left between both intake valve pushrods is a case thru bolt correct?

I may have one or the other weeping oil. Not much, not having to add between oil change intervals. I've confirmed it's not pushrods tube/s. I'm leaning at the case thru-bolt since it has more grime around it. It's just behind the deflector tin between both intake valves for 1 & 2 cylinders. Is this something that can be tackled without an engine pull or is it worth it? This is on a Type-4 CB case 1972 Westy.

[Amskeptic]

Passenger side between cylinder 1 pushrod tubes there is a control valve and above that and to the left between both intake valve pushrods is a case thru bolt correct?

I may have one or the other weeping oil. Not much, not having to add between oil change intervals. I've confirmed it's not pushrods tube/s. I'm leaning at the case thru-bolt since it has more grime around it. It's just behind the deflector tin between both intake valves for 1 & 2 cylinders. Is this something that can be tackled without an engine pull or is it worth it? This is on a Type-4 CB case 1972 Westy.

Case through bolt is supposed to have a copper washer!
to prevent leaks!
14 ft/lbs only!
No "tighten to stop leak allowed!

You should replace copper washer at oil change when strainer is removed, because you may need to push up on pick-up to align as you reinstall the bolt.
Colin

[72Hardtop]

Passenger side between cylinder 1 pushrod tubes there is a control valve and above that and to the left between both intake valve pushrods is a case thru bolt correct?

I may have one or the other weeping oil. Not much, not having to add between oil change intervals. I've confirmed it's not pushrods tube/s. I'm leaning at the case thru-bolt since it has more grime around it. It's just behind the deflector tin between both intake valves for 1 & 2 cylinders. Is this something that can be tackled without an engine pull or is it worth it? This is on a Type-4 CB case 1972 Westy.

Case through bolt is supposed to have a copper washer!
to prevent leaks!
14 ft/lbs only!
No "tighten to stop leak allowed!

You should replace copper washer at oil change when strainer is removed, because you may need to push up on pick-up to align as you reinstall the bolt.
Colin

Thanks, I can see the copper washer in place. Also looks like a bit of Permatex Aviation sealant was used as well. It appears to be just weeping a bit. I'm not likely going to tackle it since it has been this way far as long back as I can remember (rebuild in 2000).

How about the thermostat nuts? Would removing the thermostat cause any leak/s?

Gonna take a closer look at the push rod tubes again. No signs of any oil on the bottom of tubes themselves. But looking down into where the o-rings sits I see what looks like a little oil (case side). Any tips/tricks to ensuring the tubes seal nicely such as sealant of any kind? such as Hylomar, Loctite-518, Permatex etc... The seals are fairly new(approx 4500 miles)since install of new heads.

[vdubyah73]

gently, twisting push rod tube in place sometimes settles newly installed seals. 4500 miles should still be fairly new and pliable. unless you beat the snot out of it and run hot hot, flogging it when you should be easing off. use pliers or vice grips if needed, gently gently. if you need to dent tube to grip and twist it's probably to late and seals are already taking a permanent set. they harden up with age and heat.

[satchmo]

The CB case does have an oil pressure valve somewhere below cylinder #1. Okay to get up there and tighten it a bit if you can. I think it takes a triple square bit IIRC. The studs for the thermostat just end in a blind hole, so no leaking possible there.

Tim

[72Hardtop]

The CB case does have an oil pressure valve somewhere below cylinder #1. Okay to get up there and tighten it a bit if you can. I think it takes a triple square bit IIRC. The studs for the thermostat just end in a blind hole, so no leaking possible there.

Tim

If your looking at your photo it would be the lower left case through bolt on #1 cylinder. The oil appears to trail down the aluminum fin that runs from it to the push rod tube. It then will work it's way down the side of the case at which point it will hang off the lowest point of the case directly below the rearmost bolt that holds the thermostat in place. (blown back by wind speed underneath). Like I say it's not a lot...as in not requiring me to add oil between oil change intervals.

I did look the push rod tube/s over real well. They appear seated and did twist fairly easy (using vise grips...very gently). The oil I'm seeing at the push rod tube must be coming from what is working it's way down from the case bolt directly toward the tube itself. It never leaves any oil marks on the ground either.

Other than that...bone dry. Although I did have to fix the small oil leak I had at the lower fuel pump bolt. I had replaced the diaphragm awhile back and while underneath I noticed the oil at the lower bolt. I pulled it and clean it thoroughly and coated it with some Hylomar and replaced it gently snugging it up. No more oil leak.

[72Hardtop]

Update:

I've confirmed it's the intake push rod tube for #1 cylinder. I'm able to twist the tube using my fingers with relative ease. It's only weeping oil at speed also. I let it idle for 10 mins and no oil. Take it on the highway for a run...guess what? A bit of oil runs down the case. Head side is dry. Is it possible to pop that tube out far enough without removing the rocker stand? If so...I figure I'd check the o-ring and clean it well and apply some Hylomar. I'll also check the case side seating are as well. Any thoughts?

[satchmo]

Update:

I've confirmed it's the intake push rod tube for #1 cylinder. I'm able to twist the tube using my fingers with relative ease. Head side is dry. Is it possible to pop that tube out far enough without removing the rocker stand? If so...I figure I'd check the o-ring and clean it well and apply some Hylomar. I'll also check the case side seating are as well. Any thoughts?

I doubt you can move it out far enough without removing the rocker stand. You will need to remove the push rod tube retainer spring (if you still have one in place) regardless.

One of the great points about type 4 engines is that it is relatively easy to R&R the push rod tubes with the heads on. Removing the rockers is not that difficult, really.

I'd get new push rod tube seals (the brown viton ones are the best, I keep hearing), clean the bores on the case and the head, clean the push rod, and reinstall with a light coat of oil only. I don't think any sealant is recommended, especially anything with RTV. Up to you though. Hylomar is good stuff and doesn't harden.

Tim

[SlowLane]

You will need to remove the push rod tube retainer spring (if you still have one in place) regardless.

And that there is a salient point: if you don't have a retaining spring, get one (or two) as soon as you can. If you do have the spring(s), then take a peek under the valve cover and see if the flat parts of the retainer is pushing against the end of the pushrod tubes (it should) or is resting inside the tubes (shouldn't). That slight pressure of the retainer is there to prevent the tubes from creeping out of the case spigots through the engine's expansion/contraction cycles.

[72Hardtop]

Upon closer inspection the retaining wire on the front passenger side was out of place just enough to cause the intake push rod on #1 to back out enough to leak. I popped out the tube(not having to drop the stands) just enough to inspect the o-rings and clean everything up well. Once clean I applied a thin coat of Hylomar on the o-ring and a thin coat in the bore and re-inserted the push rod tube. Also checked the valve lash as well. Took for test drive...no more leak

Turns out when I twisted the tube and pushed toward the case initially the tube must have moved close to half an inch. Checking the wire I found that all except #1 intake were resting on the tube itself. #1 was against the bore but not making contact with the tube.

Now to keep an eye on the lower fuel pump bolt. It's weeping ever so slightly. I'm probably going to pull it and clean it thoroughly and apply some thread sealant.

[grandfatherjim]

I have been fighting the oil leak from the lower fuel pump bolt for ages. I think I have finally found it - the fuel pump breather tube was the real culprit, and the oil would drip/get blown down onto the bolt.
Since I've switched to an electric pump, I carefully plugged the breather and I think it has stopped now. I do need to check again, having just done ~1000 miles recently.
Jim

[72Hardtop]

I have been fighting the oil leak from the lower fuel pump bolt for ages. I think I have finally found it - the fuel pump breather tube was the real culprit, and the oil would drip/get blown down onto the bolt.
Since I've switched to an electric pump, I carefully plugged the breather and I think it has stopped now. I do need to check again, having just done ~1000 miles recently.
Jim

When using the mechanical fuel pump it's best to use some Permatex thread sealant on the lower bolt and you'll have no leak.

[grandfatherjim]

I have been fighting the oil leak from the lower fuel pump bolt for ages. I think I have finally found it - the fuel pump breather tube was the real culprit, and the oil would drip/get blown down onto the bolt.
Since I've switched to an electric pump, I carefully plugged the breather and I think it has stopped now. I do need to check again, having just done ~1000 miles recently.
Jim

When using the mechanical fuel pump it's best to use some Permatex thread sealant on the lower bolt and you'll have no leak.

Noted!

In my case the drip was bad enough that it was clearly coming out the breather hole, maybe a drip every 20 seconds with the engine off, even when cold. However next time I'm in there I will also follow the sealant on the bolt suggestion. Certainly easier to do than the top bolt...