Proper jack and jack stand locations

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:35 am

Used it once on a gravel forest road without problems. I guess the angle is crucial.
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bretski
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Post by bretski » Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:45 am

The Bilstein jack works, but *please* chock your other wheels when you use it!

Last year, I caved-in and bought one of these:

http://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=237011031

It is an order of magnitude more stable than the factory-equipped Bilstein, especially on uneven ground. Fits just fine under the front passenger seat, too!
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Mr Blotto
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Post by Mr Blotto » Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:53 am

bretski wrote:The Bilstein jack works, but *please* chock your other wheels when you use it!

Last year, I caved-in and bought one of these:

http://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=237011031

It is an order of magnitude more stable than the factory-equipped Bilstein, especially on uneven ground. Fits just fine under the front passenger seat, too!
I got one of those too - seems like a major improvement over the original design....but I would still not use it for anything except changing a tire.
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stevespeirs
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Re: Proper jack and jack stand locations

Post by stevespeirs » Tue Oct 23, 2018 1:17 pm

Amskeptic wrote:
Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:09 pm
Floorjack
Rear Anywhere along the torsion tube, if you want to raise the entire rear of the car, use the nose cone mounting plate with two 17mm bolts coming down.
Just checking.... the area circled in red is safe? Worth using a block of wood on the floor jack to protect the bolts? Thanks!
underside.jpg

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Amskeptic
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Re: Proper jack and jack stand locations

Post by Amskeptic » Wed Oct 24, 2018 8:21 am

stevespeirs wrote:
Tue Oct 23, 2018 1:17 pm
Amskeptic wrote:
Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:09 pm
Floorjack
Rear Anywhere along the torsion tube, if you want to raise the entire rear of the car, use the nose cone mounting plate with two 17mm bolts coming down.
Just checking.... the area circled in red is safe? Worth using a block of wood on the floor jack to protect the bolts? Thanks!

underside.jpg


Yes, it is safe. I turned your interesting photograph into a little diagram. It is a lousy photograph, actually, so I need to add details here.


Red: Don't worry about "protecting the bolts", what the wood really does is crush and lock things in place for less slippage potential.
Avoid accidentally snagging the transaxle with the lifting cup.
At the front, avoid the center pin dust cap, don't worry so much about the torsion leaves pinch bolt.

Purple: If you are adjusting rear brakes or pulling a front wheel, you can jack under the local suspension arm. The diagonal arm in the rear has a nice edge under the four bolts that hold it to the spring plate. The front lower trailing arm has a little area inboard of the shock mount just behind the stabilizer bar bushing.

Green: most jack stands have little raised edges. These will "cradle" the frame at the rear torsion tubes. Since your floor jack will likely describe an arc as you lower it, you need to pre-emptively locate the jack stand to take the frame at the vertical pinch weld. At the front, you can support the vehicle under the frame rails only at the jack port crossmember.
Colin

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Chloe - 70 bus . . . . . . . . 219,045 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . . . 185,060 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . 55,630 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . 99,705 miles

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asiab3
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Re: Proper jack and jack stand locations

Post by asiab3 » Wed Oct 24, 2018 5:50 pm

Many people use jack stands on the front beam. If you do the same, PLEASE look for the grease zerk fittings, and do not lower the car onto the fittings……

Robbie
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Amskeptic
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Re: Proper jack and jack stand locations

Post by Amskeptic » Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:49 pm

asiab3 wrote:
Wed Oct 24, 2018 5:50 pm
Many people use jack stands on the front beam. If you do the same, PLEASE look for the grease zerk fittings, and do not lower the car onto the fittings……

Robbie

.. .. .. and it is recommended to stay away from the pinch welded frame mounting stampings unless you are prepared to drill new drain holes NOW before you even crush those pathetic drain nubs closed. Those are great locations (after you have ensured drainage) for when you need to unload the front suspension on just one side.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . . . . . . .115,063 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . . . . . . 219,045 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . . . 185,060 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . 55,630 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . 99,705 miles

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Re: Proper jack and jack stand locations

Post by stwesty » Sat Apr 24, 2021 10:14 am

stevespeirs wrote:
Tue Oct 23, 2018 1:17 pm
Amskeptic wrote:
Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:09 pm
Floorjack
Rear Anywhere along the torsion tube, if you want to raise the entire rear of the car, use the nose cone mounting plate with two 17mm bolts coming down.
Just checking.... the area circled in red is safe? Worth using a block of wood on the floor jack to protect the bolts? Thanks!

underside.jpg
Any recommendations for an automatic? The plate on the automatic is oriented different so that spot doesn't work.

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asiab3
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Re: Proper jack and jack stand locations

Post by asiab3 » Thu May 06, 2021 5:43 am

Use the beam and jack up one side of the car at a time?
1969 bus, "Buddy."
145k miles with me.
322k miles on Earth.

cv66seabear
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Re: Proper jack and jack stand locations

Post by cv66seabear » Fri Aug 09, 2024 1:37 pm

Out of curiosity - I am wondering if those garage floor jacks (post or scissor style) can be used? I'm not sure they would connect with the right areas, and I'd hate to get one then find out it bent the snot out of my undercarriage or beam.

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