Itinerant Air-Cooled

I just ordered $250 of stuff from CB Perf for the Thing engine I'm buildin.

1525 Eagle Cam Gear $18.95 $18.95
1512 VW Valve Lifters (set of $22.95 $22.95
490 High Performance Valve Springs - 40hp-later (set of $19.95
1778 Maxi Pump 5 (to 70) fits aftermarket performance cams with bolt on gears or stock cams with flat gears $49.95 $49.95
1760 High Rev Windage Tray $8.95 $8.95
1748 High Pressure Oil Hose (foot) $1.95 $19.50
6096 Universal Throttle Cable $6.95 $6.95
1732 Remote Oil Filter Adapter $12.95 $12.95
2230 Eagle Racing Cam - Adv. Duration 264° / Dur. @ .050" 220° / Lift @ cam .301" / Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .331" $78.95 $78.95
3986 90 Degree Return Fitting (3/8" NP) $2.95 $2.95
3971 Brass Fitting - 1/2'' Hose x 1/4'' - 18 NPT $1.89 $3.78
1504 Steel Valve Spring Retainers (set of $4.95 $4.95
subtotal $250.78
tax $0.00
shipping carrier: Ground $27.12
additional cost () $0.00
total $277.90 Plus $14 for a cyl head CCing kit

The $300 engine I got to start with turned out to be real nice. It had fresh never run .025 bearings around the crank and very low milage P&C's...The only things I didnt like were the cam and lifters, and 19mm oil pump. At the local parts house I spent $120 for a gasket set, rear seal, Pulley and sand seal, elephant foot valve adjusters and a valve cover engine breather. Will post more pics as this engine comes back together. So far my total for this engine is $700 so far, not bad!

Pics are here
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BK ... directlink picture

First thing you need to do is quit keeping track of how much you are spending.

chitwnvw wrote:First thing you need to do is quit keeping track of how much you are spending.

You are very wise.

If it's a labor of love, it prolly won't matter as much, eh?

Is no big deal...Once I start buildin an engine I understand that it costs what it costs and to take shortcuts is false economy. I plan to be very anal in it's construction and am going to port the heads, match the ports, balance etc. The only major expense I forsee at this point is getting a 3 angle valve job done on the heads. Initially it's going to have stock intake and exhaust, but these will go away eventually.

Actually it is the porting and polishing that costs more then the valve seat grind....if it is done right that is.

I just pull out my dremel and do the porting and polishing, no sweat.

Ritter wrote:

chitwnvw wrote:First thing you need to do is quit keeping track of how much you are spending.

You are very wise.

“A man only becomes wise when he begins to calculate the approximate depth of his ignorance.”

I too plan to do my own porting and polishing according the "How to Hotrod your VW engine" book. I also plan to tell the machinist to sink the valves and do a 3 angle valve job like this book recommends.

I do understand what I do not know, and it is much greater than what I know.

As previously stated keeping track of what the costs are, is not an issue for me as I understand its gonna cost what it costs. Nothing you can do except be less anal and that's not really an option building an engine, as they demand analness.

Been busy cleaning the case and the stuff that bolts to it. Painting the tins is coming up soon. CP Perf shipped my parts and they should be here next Wednesday. Need to get the die grinder going on the heads.....

RSorak 71Westy wrote:Been busy cleaning the case and the stuff that bolts to it. Painting the tins is coming up soon. CP Perf shipped my parts and they should be here next Wednesday. Need to get the die grinder going on the heads.....

A historical record of your engine rebuild can flourish here in the Type 1 Forum. If you get stopped short with a problem/mystery, you can post in the engine forum . . .
Itinerant Soivice Desk HEYyougottaproblemwiddat?

The case has been full flow tapped and deflashed and washed thoroughly by hand and then each case half went into the dishwasher for a pot scrubber cycle! Got all the parts laid out on my new stainless table and am about ready to reassemble the case.

No fair - you're going so fast!!! My rebuild is over two months and counting and I'm still needing parts (main bearings with a .040 thrust, .020 case, .020 crank)

The numbers on each of your case halves (#353) are likely from the machinist - they like to put your job number on everything so nothing gets lost or misplaced normally. I just learned this yesterday.

Always love seeing a Thing on the road =D>

Well the test assembly of the block yielded a problem....My new Eagle cam gear has over 5 thou of backlash, it audibly clicks when you rock the cam gear back and forth. CB Perf did not list diff. sizes as an option.....What am I to do? I understand if I run this, from Colin's exp. that it'll make a horrible racket and I don't any engine I build making a horrible racket.
I'm calling CB in the morning.....

No need to call CB, solved my problem with the old stock cam gear, as it fit well. Ground the rivet heads off on the cam side, drove them thru with a punch. Then had to enlarge the holes in the stock gear for the bolts. Now all I need to do is clearance the bolt heads and the back of the oil pump....

Ok the case is bolted back together! I did this last night. The crank spins freely and it's ready for some P&C's and some heads. I forgot to take any pics of it before I put it back together. I wanted to get a shot of the case half with all the stuff in it, but failed....but will post a pic of its current status soon.