Best Dashcap Adhesive and Method
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Best Dashcap Adhesive and Method
Got a new dashcap to replace the tacky bright red one the Beetle came with.
What's the best kind of glue to use to hold this down? I was thinking about Epoxy or something.
As far as Method goes, I plan to use a bungee cord to hold a board that's the exact length of the dash across the front (suggested by Linda Costa), a thicker board across the right top (along the indentation) and jam a couple of 2X4s under the bottom lip to help it hold.
Anyone have any other tips?
What's the best kind of glue to use to hold this down? I was thinking about Epoxy or something.
As far as Method goes, I plan to use a bungee cord to hold a board that's the exact length of the dash across the front (suggested by Linda Costa), a thicker board across the right top (along the indentation) and jam a couple of 2X4s under the bottom lip to help it hold.
Anyone have any other tips?
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Sadly, it took me till this morning to get that.spiffy wrote:Sleep on it.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- Hippie
- IAC Addict!
- Location: 41º 35' 27" N, 93º 37' 15" W
- Status: Offline
-
- IAC Addict!
- Status: Offline
I wouldn't use an epoxy, to brittle a joint. I would just use a quality construction type of adhesive. The adhesive will allow some movement between the plastic and metal as they heat up and cool down with the summer sun and the cold winter nights. 3M makes some great products. One is 3M 5200, a marine adhesive, it has a very tenacious grip. I have seen wood tear apart before the stuff lets go. A better option would be 3M 4200, great adhesion but not as tenacious. Both of these products are made for use below the waterline on through hull fittings, your boat would sink if these products failed. Used everywhere from arctic to tropical waters. The 3M 4200 is made so you can take apart at a later date, 3M 5200 is much more permanent.
Both can be found in black.
Bill
Both can be found in black.
Bill
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Thanks! I think I'll try this.vdubyah73 wrote:I wouldn't use an epoxy, to brittle a joint. I would just use a quality construction type of adhesive. The adhesive will allow some movement between the plastic and metal as they heat up and cool down with the summer sun and the cold winter nights. 3M makes some great products. One is 3M 5200, a marine adhesive, it has a very tenacious grip. I have seen wood tear apart before the stuff lets go. A better option would be 3M 4200, great adhesion but not as tenacious. Both of these products are made for use below the waterline on through hull fittings, your boat would sink if these products failed. Used everywhere from arctic to tropical waters. The 3M 4200 is made so you can take apart at a later date, 3M 5200 is much more permanent.
Both can be found in black.
Bill
Contact cement wouldn't work because I need to slide the cap around to get it perfectly placed.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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