Itinerant Air-Cooled

Pulled the engine to rip it apart, reseal everything, powder coat the tin and bring it back to stock. Taking the tranny out for a rebuild to cure shot synchro's that make shifting not fun and reseal the damn leaking thing.
While it's all out, I'll tackle welding in new metal in the engine bay that either rusty or smashed from a old accident and poorly repaired (pop rivets?) The engine tin didn't seal at all with the engine bay rubber seals so I never drove it far as it got pretty hot quickly from all the exhaust heat being sucked in.

Parked in the shade and rain as it's going to take me some time to do the work.

Note the smashed metal by the trunk latch

Ouch!

I feel your pain.


neal

I am not repairing the pans at this time. A little rusty but ok for now. Rear bearings, redo the rear brakes and shifter bushings besides fixing the smashed metal. Tranny was dropped off at AA on friday and won't be done for a month or so.

Bleyseng wrote:I am not repairing the pans at this time. A little rusty but ok for now. Rear bearings, redo the rear brakes and shifter bushings besides fixing the smashed metal. Tranny was dropped off at AA on friday and won't be done for a month or so.

What is the data that suggests your engine is running hot?
Let's keep open the possible causes for your hot-running engine. For example, exhaust getting sucked into the engine bay is not the cause . . .
Colin

I don't think it got really hot hot but the rubber engine seal didn't fit correctly so there was a air gap for exhaust heat to get sucked up. Why the engine doesn't fit correctly is a puzzle as everything else seems straight and ok.
I never had any hard data on how hot it got but the engine is a complete unknown to me and once it's run on the freeway for an hour it leaks oil pretty good. I had stopped the leaks from the valve covers but front and rear crank seals leak and of course from the oil cooler.
With the quality of work done on the rest of the mechanicals I am pulling the engine apart to see what's up with it. Maybe I am lucky and it just needs a few things as it's a replacement case with just a "B" stamped on it. I did check the AFR and it runs around 13.5 so that is good as it looks to be just a stock 1600sp engine.
Time will tell when I get the chance to disassemble it.

I am still waiting for the rebuilt transmission so I have the engine stripped down to a long block. Time to pull the heads, inspect everything and hopefully just install all new seals. So far everything looks to be oem VW so that's a surprise but I really don't know when this 1600SP was rebuilt. It has a universal case probably due to the accident that broke the case apart along with a new right rear fender.

I bought a new spot weld cutter and I am tackling the rotted out battery tray/engine surround and the rear surround which is mashed/ugly.
pics later...

Bleyseng wrote: pics later...

Ok, here is two shots of the engine bay "shelfs" that need replacing.

another showing the smashed rear.

Bleyseng wrote:Ok, here is two shots of the engine bay "shelfs" that need replacing.

I am going to guess that this car used to be "orange".
Colin

Yes, it was a orange car but now has three coats of crappy black paint.
Finally got the new shims and oil seal so I could set the endplay. Got it set to .005 which is fine and installed the oil seal, flywheel, new disc and PP. Finally getting some progress on it as I am in "no time for cars" mode.

Bleyseng wrote:Yes, it was a orange car but now has three coats of crappy black paint.
Finally got the new shims and oil seal so I could set the endplay. Got it set to .005 which is fine (sort-of-not-really) and installed the oil seal, flywheel, new disc and PP. Finally getting some progress on it as I am in "no time for cars" mode.

Colin

Hmm, the books spec's says "between .003 and .005 with a wear limit of .006."
I am happy with this vs when I started it was .012!
I used the double lipped oil seal (lightly greased) and assembled the flywheel , new disc and PP. Yes, new O ring in the flywheel too. I am sure this will solve the oil leak that has plagued this engine since I have had it.
Now to go pick up the missing air control flaps assembly from Ken@thebusco so it warms up properly.
Why do shadetree mechanics all rip out the Flaps!! In the winter it took a long time for the engine to heat up let alone defrost the windshield....idiots. (The car has been a Seattle car for most of its life)

Bleyseng wrote:Hmm, the books spec's says "between .003 and .005 with a wear limit of .006."
I am happy with this vs when I started it was .012!

Please, please be less happy . . .
If the factory window ranges from .003" to .006", you will improve your service life dramatically by shooting for the edge of the lower limit. A Type 1 magnesium case desperately wants you to keep the banging to a minimum. A Type 4 aluminum case is a bit stronger, but still, it is important to keep that heavy walloping crankshaft within strict tolerances in the Faberge eggshell crankcase.