1974 Super beetle, basket case...

[cegammel]

New tires this morning, police inspection at lunch, and first test drive around the block this afternoon...only to find that one of my tires was flat...leaking from the middle of the rusted rim. So, anyone have a rim to spare in GA or FL?

[cegammel]

Brake lights:

Am I correct in reading that the brake light switches connect the 82a hot wire to the 81 black/red wire when the pedal is pressed?

I have 12volts at the 82, but nothing leaving 81... I have tried two sets of switches with the same results.

I shall next check continuity from front to rear black /red ends, just in case there is a break in there.

Any ideas are appreciated!

[cegammel]

I just happened upon a Samba thread on brake lights. The author specified that the coil should be unhooked before extensive testing with the ignition on...is this just to prevent accidental starting, or is there danger to the coil with the switch on?

I ask because my coil is quite hot after playing with these danged brake lights for the last three hours...

[cegammel]

Brake lights partially resolved:
1) broken ground in engine bay
2) sloppy and corroded spades on brake light switches
3) sloppy bulb connections
4) replaced brake light switches with known good set

I now have at least one brake light...Thanks to some combination of fixes...

Still no turn signals or hazard flashers...

[asiab3]

I don't leave the ignition hooked up during extensive testing a) because it could pitt your points, b) because the coil gets hot and I don't like that, and c) the choke element heats up, so if you fire up the engine after, the choke won't be set right.

I pull the black wire from the key switch off the positive (#15) coil terminal and cap it with a rubber boot. I carry a small rubber wire condom in my tool box for capping the negative battery ground strap, and I just wedge it in somewhere so the hot ignition wire can live inside it without fear of arcing and shorting out somewhere.

[cegammel]

Day 2 of actually driving the car...compared to my Vanagon, this thing is a total clunker...

Squealing clutch TOB, scary steering, washed out tie rods, no suspension to speak of...and then, there's the awful interior...and the shoddy paint job.

I need another summer break to finish this thing.

[cegammel]

So many mistakes. Engine is coming back out to figure out this squealing throw out bearing and pouring rod tube leak.

[cegammel]

I decided just to drive the car. It leaks. It squeaks. It shimmies. It clunks. But, it's the cutest damn thing on the road, and it just feels nice.

I have had a lot of trouble finding the large vacuum? hose that runs from the fuel filler neck to the tank for this car and for my van. Two orders have resulted in two incorrectly sized hoses, and no luck with FLAPS.

So, I am left with a strong fuel smell.
Also, my steering column switch cover is warmer than it should be, and THE CAR STILL LEAKS!!!! I went out in the pooring rain a few minutes ago and found one new hole and two new tracks. Back to the board for water prevention.

But! Shes's running great! I have been driving it all over town, and it is perfect for what we do.

[cegammel]

Back to my starting issue from a few pages ago...

I turn the key, the relay clicks, then nothing happens. I have 12 volts at the switch to solenoid wire, #50 when the key is turned to start. When I connect my remote starter, she fires right up. I have cleaned the ignition wires, but they are original. I actually had a pretty funny flaming incident with some electrical cleaner and a steel brush last time this happened...funny after the fact...

After starting with the remote starter, it will then start fine for a couple of weeks.

Any ideas?

[asiab3]

I turn the key, the relay clicks, then nothing happens.

What relay? Do you have a "hard start relay" or do you mean the starter solenoid?

[cegammel]

I hear a click from the fuse block region of the netherdash...I assumed it to be a relay, on analogy with the turn signal clicking...

[asiab3]

I hear a click from the fuse block region of the netherdash...I assumed it to be a relay, on analogy with the turn signal clicking...

I do not know of any relay system in the netherdash for early VWs, but with all the safety "seatbelt interlock" crap that later bug drivers deal with, I expect to be wrong. Oh look at that, yep, your ignition switch #50 "starter signal" wire goes to J34, the "safety belt warning relay"……

(Open these in new windows:)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/inf ... wiring.jpg
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/inf ... 13-key.jpg

Can you trace your #50 "stater" wire circuit from the ignition switch to the J34 relay? (Factory red and white stripe wire.) Then trace the #50 wire to the connector under the rear seat bench, (red/black stripes, T1b,) THEN trace that wire to the spade connector #50 on the starter,(solid red wire.)

Clean Every Terminal Along The Trace.
Report Back.
Robbie

PS- I get sick to my stomach every time I encounter one of those "family tree" style wiring diagrams, but they DO get easier with practice. I promise:
viewtopic.php?f=48&t=232

[cegammel]

Want a good laugh?


It appears that my seat belt / brake light / starter relay has been 'hotwired'...with a bobby pin...

This may just be part of my intermittent no start issue.

[asiab3]

Wow. I don't even know where to begin. Clean the snot out of those connectors, then see if you can read the terminal diagrams. My slightly educated guess is that your PO bridged those contacts to bypass the seatbelt interlock.

But seriously Wow.
Robbie

[wcfvw69]

It appears that my seat belt / brake light / starter relay has been 'hotwired'...with a bobby pin...

Holy hackorama Batman! Personally, I'd throw that in the recycle bend and source a new one. I wouldn't trust that any farther than I could throw it.